Soak, Rinse, Drain, Eat, Repeat – Growing Sprouts by Patty G Leander

Posted on January 22, 2013 by Jay White

These alfalfa sprouts are ready to enjoy. Photo by Bruce Leander

How are you doing with those New Year’s Resolutions? Did you resolve to eat and/or grow more vegetables? If so, here’s a simple way to do both: grow your own sprouts! Sprouts can be grown any time of year and are always in season, but are especially rewarding when winter days are cold and dreary. They are easy to grow, nutritious, and are ready to eat in only 4-6 days.

Except the seeds, you probably already have all you need to grow sprouts. Photo by Bruce Leander

With the exception of the seeds themselves, you probably already have the supplies you need right there in your kitchen. Seeds can be purchased online and you can often find sprouting seeds in the bulk section of natural food stores or at your local nursery. Popular seeds for sprouting include alfalfa, daikon radish, kale, mustard, broccoli, lentils and mung beans For the purpose of growing sprouts it’s important to use organic or untreated seeds that are sold specifically for sprouting. A few of my favorite online sources for sprouting seeds and supplies include Sprout People (www.sproutpeople.com), Johnny’s Seeds (www.johnnyseeds.com) and Pinetree Seeds (www.superseeds.com).

The lid of this jar is specifically designed for sprouting. however, you can build your own with a mayonaise jar and cheese cloth. Photo by Bruce Leander

There are 3 simple steps for growing edible sprouts: 1) Soak 2) Rinse 3) Drain

First soak seed for 12-24 hours in a clean, wide-mouth quart canning or mayonnaise jar. Use 2 tablespoons for small seed like alfalfa or broccoli and ¼ cup for large seeds like mung beans or lentils. Two tablespoons may not seem like much but once all those little seeds start sprouting they will take up plenty of room in the jar. Cover the opening with cheesecloth, a piece of nylon pantyhose, or a special sprouting lid with holes for drainage. The next morning drain off the water (I drain the water into my compost bucket) and cover the jar so the seeds are not exposed to light by either placing the jar in a paper bag, wrapping the jar in foil or rolling it up in a towel. Lay the jar sideways on the counter so the seeds are distributed evenly. Gently rinse and drain the seeds with tepid water 2-3 times a day. After 3 or 4 days (some seeds take longer, check packet for specific sprouting information), expose your sprouts to bright light for a several hours so they can green up. Give them one final rinse, pat or spin dry and they are ready to eat.

Fresh sprouts ready to eat! Here is what two tablespoons of alfalfa sprouts produce five days after the process starts. Photo by Bruce Leander

If not consumed that day they can also be stored in the refrigerator for 5-7 days. Pile sprouts on sandwiches, wraps, omelets, salads or slaw. They can also be added to soups or stir-fry, cooking briefly for a pleasant crunch. Start a new jar of seeds every week for a continuous supply of seeds.

Sprouts can be added to soups, salads, stir fry and even sandwiches. Photo by Bruce Leander

Growing Beets (Beta vulgaris)

Posted on January 11, 2013 by Jay White

Beets are one of those vegetables that take me back to childhood. My Aunt Sarah and Uncle Tom grew them. At their house, no summer meal was complete without a side of cold pickled beets. My aunt and uncle were carrying on a tradition that started more than 4000 years ago. That’s when the people that know about these things believe beets were first cultivated and consumed in the areas around the Mediterranean sea. These early beet lovers ate the roots and the tops. In fact, they ate beet greens until spinach was introduced around AD 850. The Romans used beets as a food staple. They also used them to dye their clothes, cure their constipation and spice up their love lives (they considered beets an aphrodisiac). Since the Romans ate them, they spread to Europe. Most European countries developed their own recipes that embraced the beet (think borsch). And, thanks to Napoleon, they also grew them to make sugar. However, with all of that history, I still can’t get anyone at my house to eat them except me.

Larry and Carol Ann Sayle grow a variety of beets at Boggy Creek Farms. Photo from their website. http://www.boggycreekfarm.com/

Growing – There are two types of beets regularly grown in the home garden; var flaviscens and var vulgaris. Flaviscens is the botanical name for chard. Many people do not realize that chard is actually a beet that has been developed more for its stem and leaves than for its roots. Vulgaris is what the majority of us think of when we think about beets. Most of the beets grown in the home garden have a characteristic, deep red bulb (Bull’s Blood). However, there are varieties available that are white (Albino), yellow (Golden) and striped (Chioggia).

Freshly germinated Bull’s Blood Beets. Notice how much they look like chard at this stage.

Beets can be grown almost year round in gardens a little further north than mine. However, they prefer cooler temperatures and grow best when the air temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees. Since it gets so hot here I confine my beet production to the fall and early spring garden. Around mid- September, I plant my first row of beets. I often add another row in October, November and December (they can survive all but the worst freezes that Zone 9 can throw at them). This succession planting will keep me in beets right up to March. To plant, I dig a shallow furrow with my trusty Cobrahead Hand Hoe, scatter the seeds, cover and water. Within a few days, they sprout. In fact, so many little plants pop up that I am convinced they have about a 110% germination rate!

Chard is actually a beet that has been bred for its stems and leaves

Once the true leaves form, I start thinning to about 4” apart. They will mature in 45-70 days depending on variety. For best production, keep your beats evenly moist throughout their lifecycle. Beets will stop growing at whatever size they are at if the soil is allowed to dry out. Harvest your beets when they are 1 ½” to 2” in diameter. If beets get too big they become very fibrous and are not fit to eat.

Pickled Beets – Pickled beets are a family tradition at our house. My grandparents married in 1916 and I am sure my grandmother started making them for my “Pa” around that time. So, at least someone in my family has been enjoying pickled beets for the past 100 years. My grandmother taught my mother to make them and my mother has now taught me. Here’s how we do it:

Pickled beets will keep for weeks in the refrigerator

Remove tops from approximately 12 beets. Leave 1” of top on the root. This will prevent red beets from “bleeding” as much when you boil them. Place the beets in a large pan and bring to a boil. Boil until the beets are soft. Their skins will wrinkle when they are ready. Drain and run cold water over them to cool. Take the beets in your hand and gently squeeze. This will force the beet out of its skin. Remove any stubborn skin with a knife. While the skinless beets are cooling combine the following ingredients into a sauce pan and bring to a boil.

2 cups vinegar

1 cup water

¼ cup sugar

1 Heaping tablespoon of salt

6 whole cloves (optional)

Once the mixture boils, reduce heat to simmer. Cut beets into ¼” slices and place in jars. Pour the vinegar mixture into the jars until it just covers the beets. Seal the jars and place in the refrigerator.

Tomato Varieties for 2013 By William Adams ©

Posted on January 3, 2013 by Jay White

The following varieties should do well on their own roots. Some claim nematode resistance (N) and that seems to be a primary factor in achieving late season/fall production.

Nematodes can decimate a tomato’s root system. Photo By Bruce Leander

Celebrity N, Champion (Champion II seems to be the main variation of this variety left, fruits are a bit smaller but it is N resistant. Regular Champion may be too virus susceptible), Better Boy N, Viva Italia N, Tomande N, Juliet (small, saladette type), Momotaro, Early Goliath N, Tycoon, Fourth of July (Campari size). Cherry types= Sungold, Tomaccio, , Sweet 100, Sweet Million N, Sweet Chelsea N, BHN 968 N.

Juliet is always a great choice for the fall garden. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

This second list of varieties may produce fine early in the season, especially on new soils and on soils where nematode susceptible plants haven’t been grown for several years but they can really produce much better crops when grafted on nematode resistant rootstock. Even varieties on the previous list that don’t claim nematode resistance may need to be grown as grafts on nematode resistant rootstock to improve productivity. (Johnny’s Seeds does offer special rootstock varieties but the home gardener may want to go with cheaper and easier to find seed like Celebrity for their initial grafting experiments—see Johnny’s website for tomato grafting instructions. Rotating to non susceptible crops like sweet corn, planting cereal rye as a fall cover crop (use a line trimmer and dig in-in the spring), dry tilling in the late summer (nematodes need moisture to survive) and solarizing the soil=work the soil up, dampen and cover with a single layer of clear, UV resistant plastic for at least 60 days during the July-September time period to reduce nematode populations.

Black Krim is a very tasty addition to the fall garden. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

Black Sea Man, Black from Tula, Black Krim, Moskvich, Flamme, Cherokee Purple, Marianna’s Peace (a favorite in 2012), J D’s Central Texas Early Black, Persimmon, Purple Calabash, Kosovo, German Johnson, Green Zebra and Talladega Hybrid. All of these varieties from both lists have excellent flavor and texture

Designing Perfect Pots with CoCo2

Posted on December 21, 2012 by Jay White

I recently had the pleasure of visiting with Sharon Smith of Thompson + Hanson nursery in Houston. Thompson + Hanson is one of the leading nurseries in Houston. They have a wonderful retail space and an outstanding landscape design business. Sharon works at the retail location and, until very recently, was the sole designer of all of the lovely potted arrangements that you see when you walk around the nursery.

Sharon Smith in front of a lovely succulent arranged made with her CoCo2 product

Creating perfect pots requires more than skill; it also requires the proper tools. Sharon learned long ago that there were very few tools out there that were designed for her trade. So she took it upon herself to invent some. One of her potting ideas has now led her down the path of entrepreneurism.

Sharon’s product is an easy to use and practical solution to draining pots

Just like most of us, the first thing Sharon does before filling her pots is cover the drain hole. For a long time, she would spend way too much time looking for the perfect pot shard or rock to cover the hole. Then, once she found it, she still had had to worry about water and soil coming out of the bottom of her pot if she overwatered. Now for us homeowners, this is a minor inconvenience. But for Sharon, this was a major problem. Sharon’s arrangements are displayed and sold off of zinc topped tables. All of that leaking water/soil mixture created a very unattractive mess that took away from the display and required constant cleaning. She decided to find a solution.

Coco2 allows pots to drain while trapping the sol and fertilize that can stain decks and patios

Sharon’s solution is a product called CoCo². CoCo²is a bag full of square cocoa fiber (coir) mats that are designed to cover the drain holes in most pots. CoCo² is a simple as it is practical, plus it is ecologically friendly and 100% renewable. It is also made by people with special needs that prevent them from working in more traditional environments.

Sharon shows me some of the tricks she uses to create stunning arrangements

Sharon’s coir mats allow pots to drain while trapping most of the dirt that wants to escape with the water. All of that escaping dirt can create air pockets that dry sensitive roots or water channels that drain water away from the rest of the pot. Plus, it helps maintain an even surface on the top of the pot which is very important when creating truly stunning potted “sculptures” like Sharon.

Since it is Christmas, Sharon is doing a lot of work with Paperwhites (Narcissus ziva). Her CoCo² product has improved her work life in two ways. Since paperwhites are often planted in shallow containers that don’t use a lot of soil, it is important for the bulbs to have a uniform depth across the pot. Rocks and pot shards make this impossible because of their size. By simply placing a piece of her product over the hole, Sharon is able to provide the uniform planting depth that will allow each and every bulb to thrive.

Some of the 4000 bulbs that Sharon forced this year with the help of CoCo2

Part of the beauty of any paperwhite arrangement is the bulb itself. Sharon has learned that bulbs that are forced in soil tend to become discolored. Because of this, she now uses her product to keep the bulbs used in her arrangements as attractive as the flowers they produce. By placing the 2” size her product in the bottom of a 2” cell, she can add just enough potting mix in the cell to supply the moisture the bulb needs without discoloring it. The bulbs root in the coir (which gives them support) and keeps the small amount of soil that she uses in place during watering. This method provides her with the 4,000 plus beautiful paperwhite bulbs that she uses in her holiday arrangements.

Sharon is a master of horticulture in every sense of the word. She can grow anything. However, it is her design skills that set her apart from other horticulturists. Her skills have earned her a dedicated following of customers that use her creations in some of the finest and most expensive homes in Houston. If you would like to create beautiful potted arrangements like Sharon, visit her website and purchase some CoCo^2.(http://gardendivaproducts.com/).

Growing Zinnias (Zinnia elegans)

Posted on November 29, 2012 by Jay White

Lovely red and yellow Benary’s Giant zinnias in the potager

My mother is convinced that I would not have had a little sister if it weren’t for zinnias. Now before your mind goes wandering to some hot and steamy romantic place that it shouldn’t, let me explain that my little sister was adopted. If you have ever adopted a child you know that it is an arduous process that requires lots of paper work, background checks and home visits. My parent’s desperately wanted another child. However, due to complications caused by my birth, another child was a dream that could only come true for them with the help of an adoption agency. Since my mother wanted this child so much, she always worked very hard to make the best impression possible when the agency folks came to visit. These visits always warranted my mother’s best; her best dishes, her best cut work table cloth (hand made by my grand mother), her sweetest tea and a large bouquet of zinnias cut from her yard.

My parents were lucky enough to get my sister in record time and with the absolute minimum of fuss. My mom still swears that their process went so smoothly because the agent loved her tea parties so much. I have tried to tell her many times that the hassle free adoption probably had more to do with the fact that she and my dad were pretty good people that lived a very good life. However, she refuses to hear it. To her, she got her daughter because of her Southern charm and a big bunch of zinnias.

If you want fool proof color in your Zone 9 beds try Purple Fountain Grass, Sweet Potato Vine and zinnias.

I can honestly say that I have never had a garden without zinnias. They are beautiful, prolific, resilient and resistant. They come in a million different colors and their upright stalks with their alternating leaves make them so easy to cut and strip for the vase. They look so good in the beds around my house that not a single bee, moth, wasp or butterfly can get past them. Yes, I truly love zinnias.

This year, my zinnia seeds were a gift from Kim Haven of Billabong Fresh Cut Flower Farm in Hempstead, Tx

This year, I grew Benary’s Giant. Benary’s Giant are the flowers the pros grow. My seeds were a gift from my good friend Kim Haven at Billabong Fresh Cut Flower Farm in Hempstead. While I was a generic zinnia lover before, Kim’s seeds have made me a zinnia connisoer. The Benary’s Giants were so outstanding, I don’t think I will ever grow another variety.

Growing Zinnias – Each spring I am amazed to see flats of zinnia starts for sale at the nurseries. While there is nothing wrong with this, zinnias are so easy to grow from seed that it seems a waste to spend so much on so few plants. One pack of seeds properly planted will yield many more flowers than a whole flat of starts from the big box.

These baby Benary’s Giants are about 30 days old in this picture

The zinnias that most of us grow are cultivars of the species Zinnia elegans. While there are varieties that grow all over the world, Zinnia elegans originated in Central America and Mexico. Because of this, they love the full sun and hot temperatures found here in the South.

To start your zinnias, plant the seeds after the soil has warmed up to around 70 degrees. For me, here in Zone 9, that usually happens by April 15. (***See sidebar at the end of the article). Cover lightly with no more than a quarter inch of soil. Zinnias need some light to germinate so if you plant them too deep you won’t get any sprouts. For best results, plant in a loose soil that has been well worked with organic matter. To plant my seeds, I drag a rake over the area I want to plant in and then sow the seeds in a broadcast manner. After they are down, I drag the rake once in the opposite direction. I then use a spray nozzel to lightly water in the seeds. For the first couple of weeks I water enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

40 days after planting

If the soil is warm enough, your first sprouts should appear in about 7 days. Once they are up let them grow to about 3″. Thin your sprouts to about 6″ for smaller varieties and 12″ for the bigger varieties like Benary’s Giant. At this point you can begin to apply the standard 1″ of water every five days or so. If the weather cooperates, you can have your first sprouts about 40 days after germination. If you dead head regularly and add a mid-season application of compost, you can keep your zinnias blooming until the first frost.

This guy is fully mature at 50 days

Zinnias are amazingly resilient flowers. They can take some over watering and they can withstand some periods of drought. They are not bothered by many pests. However, some of the older varieties are very receptive to mildew infestation. Mildew will cause your leaves to brown and curl and can eventually kill the plant. The best way to avoid this is to water from below with drip lines or soaker hoses. If you have to water from above, water in the morning so the sun can thouroughly dry the foliage during the day. If you do all of this and still have mildew problems, look for a newer vaiety. Many of these have been breed for mildew resistance.

Cut and strip your zinnias early in the morning and drop immediately into clean water to extend their vase life

Cutting Zinnias – I grow A LOT of zinnias every year. I grow them to use as cut flowers in my house. Heck, this year I even got to use them in my daughters wedding arrangements and bouquets. With their tough stems and long upright stalks, zinnias make great cut flowers for the home gardener. To extend their vase life, cut your flowers in the early morning. Cut above a node to encourage branching and more blooms. Once you cut the flower, grasp it with your thumb and forefinger right under the flower head. Then, grasp the stalk with your other hand and pull straight down to remove all of the leaves. Once the stems are stripped, drop them immediately into bucket full of fresh, clean water. Finally, transfer to a vase with the proper amount of flower food.

We cut the last of our zinnias on November 26 for this lovely birthday bouquet for my mother-in-law.

Last night we cut the last of my zinnias. They went into a very special bouquet for my mother-in-law. You see, today is her birthday. Unfortunately, she is in the final stages of Alzhiemer’s and she will most likely not have her best birthday ever. Regardless, my wife went out into our garden last night and cut zinnias, cockscomb and roses and made her a spectacular bouquet. While the bouquet was very beautiful, it was bittersweet on many levels. First, as sick as MiMi is, we all know that there is a very good chance that we may never get to make another of these late fall bouquets for her. On a far less tragic note, the bouquet required us to cut the last of our remaining zinnias. While I know that I will have many more zinnias in the spring, the cutting of the last zinnia of fall is a very real reminder to me that what we call cold weather in Texas is on the way.

(Sidebar: “Plant after the soil has warmed to 70 degrees” is a pharase that is used in the planting guides for a lot of flowers. What that really means is “for the fastest and most uniform germination, plant when …” In reality zinnias and many other flower seeds can be planted whenever. The seeds will lay dormant in the ground until some environmental factor like moisture or day length tells them to grow. If you want to test this, let a zinnia (or cockscomb, hollyhock, cleome, larkspur or whatever) go to seed. Crumple the dry seed head and let the seeds fall to the ground. Then walk away. In early April, plant some of the same type of seeds in another part of your garden. I will bet you a dollar to a donut that the seeds that were “naturally planted” at the end of their season will produce sprouts before you ever get you April seeds in the ground.)

Red & Green – The Colors of Fall

Posted on November 12, 2012 by Jay White

This weekend was undoubtedly one of my top weekends of the year. The weather was unbelievable. My wife and I took advantage of this weather to go and help my buddy Greg Grant harvest sugar cane. Then, on the way home we stopped at the Sale Barn in Crockett and shared steaks with old friends and watched the end of the best game of the year. Yes, I am talking about the Aggies and their totally awesome victory over the Number 1 ranked Alabama Crimson Tide. Whoop!!!!

Sally and Greg cutting sugar cane

After church on Sunday, Sally made us a fabulous pot of peas that we had frozen back in the summer. She also made a pot of pinto beans straight off the vine. To me, there is nothing better than fresh beans and peas from the garden.

Fresh picked pinto beans

After lunch we headed out to the garden to harvest. Since it is supposed to be in the thirties this week I wanted to get as much in as I could just in case. I picked pinto beans, acorn squash, bell peppers, jalapeno peppers, cayenne peppers, pimento peppers and tons of tomatoes. I am so glad that I nursed those tomato plants through the summer. They have been so productive in the past couple of weeks. As I put all of these peppers, tomatoes and squash in an old bread bowl, I was taken by how beautiful all of the reds and greens were. I know that to tree watchers, the colors of fall are reds, yellows and oranges. However, to us that garden, I am convinced that red and green are the real colors of fall.

The colors of the fall garden

After our harvest we planted three short rows of Louisiana Blue Ribbon sugar cane that I got from Greg. While planting the sugar cane my wife discovered the biggest horn worm I have ever seen. This thing was as wide as my hand and as thick as my thumb. He was happily stripping what was left of the foliage on one of my vitex. After a few pictures, he became part of my garden forever. We also planted a ton of spider lily bulbs that he gave us as well. I put them all in a single small bed by my backdoor. I now cannot wait for next fall. This bed is going to be spectacular. Thanks Greg!

The biggest horn worm I have ever seen. Since it is deer season and the taxidermists are working overtime, I thought about getting this guy mounted!

Yes this weekend had everything that makes life worth living and celebrating; great friends, great food and great weather that allowed for great gardening.

The corn crib at Greg’s parents house

Remembering our Veterans with Poppies

Posted on November 6, 2012 by Jay White

Happy Election Day! As you watch the results of tonight’s election unfold, take a minute or two to remember all of those amongst us who have worn our nation’s uniforms. These men and women serve (or served) honorably regardless of who was in the whitehouse. Take time to say “Thanks” to those whose sacrifice gave you the opportunity and ability to live and vote in the land of the free. May God bless these men and women and may he continue to bless the the United States of America!

Air Intelligence Agency Logo

***This is a slighly modified re-post of an article I did in May.

I am very proud to be a veteran of the United States Air Force (Air Intelligence Agency). The Air Force paid for my education and taught me the skills that I still use to make a living today. It also taught me that duty, honor and country are a whole lot more than just three words. In short, the military is largely responsible for turning me into the man I am today.

In addition to shaping my character, the Air Force let me see the world. I literally went around the world in my ten years of service. I saw wonderful and amazing things and I met incredible people. But of all the things I saw, the thing I most remember and treasure is the November I spent in London.

What we call Veteran’s Day, the British call Remembrance Day. When it comes to appreciating and celebrating their veterans, the British beat us hands down. Veteran’s Day is huge to them because war is so personal for them. Not only did they sacrifice their loved ones to the cause, the world wars literally destroyed their country. Because of this, each November, the British host a series of events that elegantly and appropriately recognize the service of those that were willing to give the last full measure to the defense of freedom.

Crosses with poppies on “graves” in front of Westminster Abbey. Their is a grave on the lawn for every unit that served in the defense of Britian in the two world wars. Photo from http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-photo/elyssa_and_dave/europe2006/1163362140/img_3306.jpg/tpod.html

One thing that stuck with me while attending the various Remembrance Day celebrations were the poppies. They were everywhere. On lapels, in wreaths and on tiny crosses that were placed on “graves” outside Westminster Abbey that represented the dead from every military unit (including foreign) that served in the defense of Britain. The poppy was adopted as a symbol of Remembrance Day for several reasons. However, most agree that the poppy was selected primarily because of a poem written by Lt Col John McCrae. Colonel McCrae was a Canadian doctor that wrote “In Flanders Fields” after losing his close friend and student during the Battle of the Ypres Salient in Belgian Flanders. His poem is a poignant reminder of the pain and sacrifice that man brings on himself each and every time he takes up arms against his brother. In case you have never seen it before, here is his beautiful work:

Growing Poppies

This poppy is very similar to those that grow in Flander’s Fields. I took this picture in front of Texas Specialty Cut Flowers big blu barn

Even though I love growing all of my plants, none of them fill me with so much emotion as do my poppies. Each Spring they remind me of the millions of soldiers, seaman and airmen that have died in defense of their countries. They also take me back to a magical few weeks spent in London with my British cousins. The poppies I grow are deep red singles with black throats and bright yellow centers. However, if red or single is not your style, I promise there is a color and style out there for you. Poppies are like roses; they come in every color but blue.

Here is a shot of the bright red variety I grow. Thanks to Carol Ann Sayles of Boggy Creek Farms for sharing them with me

Poppies are so easy to grow. If you don’t have any, simply order or buy seeds from your favorite source. They are so adaptable that even if you order from a reseller on the East coast, there is very good chance they will do well for you in Texas. However, in my opinion, the best way to get your poppies is from a local gardener. I got the poppies featured here from Carol Ann Sayles at Boggy Creek Farms in Austin. I also have some red doubles from my buddy Greg Grant. Since poppies are such great reseeders, everyone that grows them always has plenty of seeds to share.

A lovely double pink variety grown by my friend and MOH contributor Patty Leander

Since poppies reseed so freely, once you get them established you will always have them. For best results, plant your poppy seeds in Septmeber, October or early November. Since poppy seeds are tiny, I put them out in a broadcast manner. Instead of trying to plant in rows I simply scatter them in the area that I want them in. Before I scatter them, I run a rake over the area I am going to place them. Then, once the seeds are down, I run the rake the other way. Then I water in and wait. If you want poppies next spring, you need to get them in the ground soon.

My poppies start to bloom in early March and they continue blooming well into April. By mid-April the flowers have gone and the “heads” that are filled with all of those tiny little seeds are beginning to dry. The heads that are left after the flower fades are actually what’s left of the plant’s pistil. As the pistil dries, little holes open up around the top where the stamen were once attached. These little holes turn each head into a little “salt shaker” that dispenses the seeds whenever the wind blows or the plant falls over.

A great shot of dry poppy head. Notice the little holes in the top that allow the plant to “shake” its seeds all over your garden

If you want to gather and save seeds, simply cut these heads as soon as the holes open. Shake the seeds into a bag and store for later use. I have been doing this for several years and I have now been able to spread poppies all over my property.

While many flowers are used as symbols for something, poppies represent the things I value most; sacrifice and service. Poppies are easy, reliable, carefree and oh so beautiful. Plant some now and you will be rewarded with a spring time show of beautiful flowers for years to come!

All of these seeds came from this head

Growing Poblano Peppers (Capsicum annuum v Poblano)

Posted on November 2, 2012 by Jay White

Each season one particular vegetable seems to out-do all of the rest. This year, the award for most amazing production in my garden goes to the poblano peppers. I planted three poblanos transplants in early April. By late May the plants had grown to about three feet and were beginning to provide me with a steady supply of very tasty and pretty spicy peppers. These plants produced well through the heat of July and August. Then, when the temperature dropped slightly in September, pepper production sky rocketed. I am now harvesting (and sharing) a grocery bag full of peppers every week.

If you have never grown poblanos I highly encourage you to try them. They are easy to grow, fairly resistant to pests and they have an excellent taste that falls somewhere between a banana pepper and a jalapeño on the hotness scale. These peppers are great chopped into a salad or incorporated into your favorite soups. Grill them until their skins blister and they become a soft spicy addition to you burgers. Cook them in hot oil on the stove and then use them to make your eggs, omelets and breakfast burritos really shine. Plus, they are big enough to be stuffed with just about anything you would stuff into any other pepper.

The poblano pepper originated in the state of Puebla, Mexico. It has become a very popular pepper throughout Mexico. Most of us gringos learned about these peppers when we ordered our first chile rellenos. Poblanos are often used in mole’ sauces and each year they help Mexicans celebrate their independence as the green ingredient in the red, white and green dish called chiles en nogado. Poblanos are sold both fresh and dried. In their dried form they are called ancho chiles. The dried ancho is often much hotter than the fresh poblano. Because of this, the dried peppers are often ground into a spicy chili powder that is used in many dishes.

Growing –Pepper seeds will not germinate until the soil warms up to about 70 degrees. In order to get their peppers producing as soon as possible, most pepper growers start their seeds inside about three months before soil temps reach this level. For me, this is early January. Eventhough my Poblanos were transplants, I regularly grow several varieties of tomatoes and peppers from seed. I use special planting trays that have little indentions that hold those dried peat pellets that expand with hot water. To start my peppers I make sure the pellets are fully expanded and then I use tweezers to put three seeds in each pellet. I then place the clear lid over the tray, place in a sunny window and wait.

The seeds can take 10 to 14 days to germinate. I leave them in the trays until the end of February. At that time I take little scissors and cut out the smallest plants, leaving only the sturdiest. I move the plants into a four inch pot filled with a high grade potting mix. Once they are in the pots I put them in a tray saved from previous plant purchases and then place the tray in a large, clear plastic storage bin. This bin allows me to water with abandon and also allows me to easily harden off the shoots by moving the plants outside on warm days. The sides of the container also protect my tender seedlings from wind damage.

Tomato and pepper starts ready for transfer to their 4″ pots

Sometime in early April, when soil temps are right and night time temps are staying above 60, I plant my pepper (and tomato) transplants. Peppers require full sun. They also need at least an inch of water per week and a well drained soil that is very well worked with organic matter. If the soil, sun and water are right, you can expect to start harvesting your first peppers 45 to 60 days after transplant. Peppers will produce well until temps go above above 90, then their production will fall. If you add more organic material at this time and continue to water, your peppers will continue producing right up to the first freeze.

Harvesting-Poblanos are ready to harvest when they are 4” to 6” long and their skin has a glossy sheen to it. Technically, poblanos at this stage are immature. That is fine though because they are less hot when they are green. However, if you want to dry or smoke your poblanos, leave them on the bush until they turn red. If you leave them long enough they will eventually begin to shrivel and turn a deep purple.

A ripe poblano will snap right off into your hand when it is ready to be picked. However, pepper limbs are brittle and if you try and pull a pepper that is not ready you can get a lot of foliage along with your pepper. For this reason I always use a sharp pair of shears or scissors to harvest my peppers.

Pests-Aphids, cutworms and hornworms can all be a problem for peppers. Aphids can be controlled by regularly applying a good shot of water to the underside of the leaves. Cutworms can be controlled by “wrapping” the stems of the young plants in cardboard. Simply cut a toilet paper or paper towel roll into three inch sections. Split these up the sides. Loosely wrap this around the base of your plants after transplant. Stick an inch or so of the tube into the ground and leave an inch or so above ground. Hornworms are always a double problem for me. I know they can wipe out my tomatoes, peppers and potatoes. However, they are the immature form of the hummingbird moths that I love to watch feed on my datura. Regardless of my fondness for hummingbird moths, I pull all hornworms that I find and quickly squish them. If you have a bad infestation you can apply BT but is is really only effective if applied when the caterpillars are small.

As much as I love hummingbird moths, their larvae (Hornworms) can decimate your peppers, tomatoes and potatoes

My Daughter’s Wedding Flowers

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Jay White

My lovely daughter carried a bouquet that was in part grown by me

Recently, my daughter Jessie married her high school sweet heart. The wedding was OUTSTANDING! The Deacon that performed the ceremony is a close personal friend. He has known the bride and groom the entire 12 years that they have dated. He was their religion teacher in high school and a close, personal mentor as well. Because of this close relationship with the bride and groom, he was able to perform one of the most personal, spirtual and moving wedding ceremonies I have ever witnessed. I like to say that it is very good thing to be close to a preacher when you are getting married and buried, and Deacon’s ceremony was a perfect example of why I like to say that.

A beautiful wedding in a beautiful place – St. Louis Catholic Church Waco, Texas

Besides the 200+ friends and family members that helped us celebrate, the thing that made the wedding special was all of the help we recieved from family and friends. We could not have pulled this off without a ton of help from a ton of people. A very BIG THANKS to all of you!

Their theme was kind of homemade, rustic country with of touch of class. The wedding was a great example of what happens when many talented, loving people (that spend way too much time on Pintrest and ETSY) come together to create a wedding and reception that is truly special. The cake was made by one of the bridesmaids (thanks Lydia) and the cutomized cake toppers were made by an autistic artist from Wimberley. The advice tags were hand made on an authentic 1885 vintage letter press machine in Tulsa, Ok by our dear friends Kathleen and Margaret Hartley. The sign post was a gift from her brother Chris with help from the groom and their brother in law Moose. The groom and I built a menu board from an old sreen door and a bar sign that was finished off by an incredible chalk artist. And finally, our “Thank You” gifts to those in attendance were jars of homemade jalepeno jelly made by the bride, the MOTB (my wife) and the matron of honor (our oldest daughter).

While not exactly homemade, my main contribution to this homemade celebration were flowers. I grew zinnias, celosia (Cock’s Comb) and Maximillion sunflowers for her arrangements. I don’t want to over state my contribution; most of the wedding flowers were bought. However, I grew enough that our dear friend Carolyn Bruich (with the help of her lovely daughter Madeline and many other close friends) was able to use some of my flowers in each and every arrangement and bouquet. Growing these flowers was a labor of love and I love that my daughter wanted to include them in her special day.

Weddings are great. Not only are they a great way for two people to publicly express their love and committment, they are a great way for all of those who love the bride and groom to come together and create a truly and remarkable day for them. I am so happy for Cameron and Jessie and I wish them all of the best.

For all of you that are married or are planning on getting married, I leave you with some very wise words that were shared by the groom’s older brother and best man Colt Bell. “I hope each of you find, or have found what these two have; being a great person on your own but then finding that other great person that makes you truly amazing”.

Posted on October 14, 2012 by Jay White

There weren’t many new tomato discoveries to brag about this year. What started out as a pretty good season with low insect/mite numbers due to last year’s extreme drought combined with the blessing of occasional rains, wound down with persistent heat and a buildup of stinkbugs—both the Leaf-footed variety and the shield-shaped ones. It does seem curious that the only tomato varieties that are coming back from the spring planting are the hybrids that have nematode resistance and heirlooms that were grafted on nematode resistant rootstock (Emperador from Johnny’s Seeds). Emperador is not in the 2012 catalog but Colosus F1 is listed as a more productive replacement.

2012 was a bad year for stink bugs

The most outstanding new heirloom for us in 2012 was Marianna’s Peace. This large, somewhat oblong and cherry-red tomato had some slight folding but not a drastic amount of core typical of these large heirlooms. It had good acidity and the complex, sweet tomato flavors that we lust for in a tomato. In short it was “lap over a burger wonderful” and “lick the juice off the plate tasty”. These large fruits are produced on a potato-leaved plant and production continued into early August. This variety will definitely be tried on hybrid rootstock this year.

The most outstanding new heirloom for 2012 was Marianna’s Peace. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

I had almost forgotten how good Juliet is. This small saladette type tomato has excellent flavor and it is extremely productive, often surviving into the fall. The skin might be a bit tough but it’s really not objectionable. Restaurants even mention it on the menu—“Bibb lettuce with Juliet tomatoes”.

Viva Italia is almost like a big sister to Juliet, great flavor, bigger and productive long into the season. Gets some Early Blight in a wet spring but usually recovers for production in late summer and fall. Fungicides can keep it productive throughout the season.

Jaune Flamme has good nematode resistance. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

Speaking of fall—this year we planted Fourth of July a Campari style tomato (golf ball size/large clusters) with great flavor. This is one of Burpee’s best and here it produces long before Fourth of July when planted in early spring and it often lasts into late summer and fall. Planted in June/July it looks like a good fall targeted tomato.

Purple Calabash is a great black heirloom with good nematode resistance. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

Rowdy Red is supposedly a favorite of Clint Eastwood and though not much larger than a baseball with a nipple end it has great flavor and production. Our plant is still alive in October and trying to produce more fruit. We would plant it again—maybe I’ll set an empty chair next to it for support.

Kosovo was a great tasting oxheart but the plants faded in the heat. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

Kosovo, a big Oxheart type was a surprise. It not only grew well and was fairly productive, it tasted great too. Might have to try this one on nematode-resistant rootstock since it did fade out in the heat. Thinking about using Celebrity or Better Boy since the seed is cheaper compared to the specialty rootstock varieties from Johnny’s.

Tycoon looks like it could be our new mainstay tomato variety. Grown commercially and harvested green, is not much to brag about. But vine ripe out of the garden, it is delicious. My Champion tomatoes got ringspot virus rather quickly this year so they may not be a good main crop choice anymore where you’ve grown tomatoes for a long time. Celebrity is still a good main variety too.

Cherokee Purple is a great tasting heirloom with good nematode resistance. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

Some other good candidates for hybrid/nematode resistant roots include Persimmon, Cherokee Purple, German Johnson, Flamme, any of the black tomatoes like Black from Tula, Purple Calabash, etc. Brandywine has been a disappointment in this area—on its own roots or when grafted. Even some standard and hybrid varieties don’t claim nematode resistance anymore—perhaps too much emphasis on breeding for virus resistance—so don’t rule them out for nematode-resistant roots either. Check out Johnny’s website for tomato grafting info, pick up some single edge razor blades and order some clips from Johnny’s.

German Johnson was another great tasing tomato with good nematode resistance. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.

The 2013 catalogs will start arriving soon. Don’t wait until after December 21 to order (word is the Mayan’s ran out of rock and scientists have found an addendum calendar rock) or you may not get the varieties you want. If you plant early (Mid-February in south-central Texas) you need to start seed in January.

Black From Tula is a great tasting slicer. Plus, it is very resistant to nematodes. This photo is the copyrighted property of William D Adams and cannot be published without written permission from William D Adams.