Go Vertical With Winter Squash

Posted on September 26, 2013 by Jay White

I grow squash almost year round. Since there are literally hundreds of varieties of them it is very easy to find several that will do well for you no matter where you live. Right now I am growing three little bushes of yellow crook neck. However, the stars of my fall garden are the five varieties of winter squash that I am now growing.

A lovely little acorn squash that I grew vertically last year

Now I am going to make a bit of a confession. I actually enjoy eating yellow squash and zucchini a lot more than I do winter squash. However, winter squash gives me three things that the bushing types never will – 1) It is visually stunning when grown on structure 2) It is almost 100% immune to the squash vine borer and 3) I can decorate with the fruits.

Growing Vertically – Winter squash typically grow on vines – BIG VINES. It is not uncommon for many varieties to produce vines that are 20 to 30 feet long. Because of this, a lot of folks don’t grow them. While there is no way to stop them from going big, you can control the sprawl by growing them up a structure. I grow my winter squash on a 32’ length of cattle panels. The large scale foliage of these plants cascading off of the structure makes my garden look lush and almost tropical.

I love the large scale foliage of winter squash

I planted five varieties of winter squash (see image at bottom of post) on August 15. I could have planted any time after the soil temperature was above 70 degrees. If you plant when the soil is too cool, many squash seeds will actually rot in the ground before they get a chance to germinate. Squash is also very tolerant of all types of soils. It can grow in soils that are slightly acidic and soils that are slightly basic.

Since squash grow so well from seed, and many varieties mature in 50 to 60 days, you definitely do not want to waste your money on transplants. Plant your seeds in a sunny location when night time temperatures are in the sixties. Plant them about an inch deep in soil that has been well worked with compost. Squash are heavy feeders and need good drainage to thrive. Compost will provide both of these requirements to the plants. Most squash plants sprout in 5 to 10 days. Once the true leaves appear you can thin your plants to 36” for vining types.

A baby winter squash awaits it’s flower’s opening and pollination

Because squash are big, fast growing plants they require more water and nutrients than many other vegetables. While 1” every five days may be sufficient in heavier soils, squash in sandy soils will require more. Watch your plants. It is normal for them to wilt a little on a very hot day. However, if they are wilting heavily you may want to increase the frequency of your watering. Also, since they use so much water, squash will definitely benefit from mulch. Mulch with compost and it will help the soil retain more water, keep the roots of the plant cool or warm and feed it all at the same time.

As you can see from the pictures, winter squash produce stunning foliage. Some of the leaves of my heirlooms are as large as elephant ears. These large vines also produce lots of large yellow squash blossoms that really bring in the bees.

Squash Vine Borer – If you are going to grow squash you are going to have bugs. I can deal with squash bugs. While annoying, they don’t really set my plants back much. However, no matter how hard I try, I just cannot beat the squash vine borer (SVB).

SVB damage on last year’s winter squash. Even though a SVB obviously attacked the plant, it did not effect fruit production

Luckily, winter squash are almost immune to the effects of this horrible little pest. Notice I said almost. The SVB can devastate summer squash because it only has a few stems to produce leaves and fruit. The ugly little caterpillar can borrow through these few stems and destroy the plants entire vascular system. Winter squash, on the other hand, spread out and put down roots every place a node lies on the ground. Because of this, even if the SVB caterpillar gets inside the base of the plant, it cannot destroy the entire vascular system. All of those rooted nodes ensure that the plant can continue to thrive even if the base gets infested with the SVB.

If you grow vertically you will be limiting the number of nodes that root on the ground. This can limit its SVB fighting power. If you are really worried about the SVB I suggest letting one or two vines grow on the ground and then let the rest grow up over the structure. Winter squash is designed by nature to grow over things. They produce tendrils that are long and strong. Because of this it is very easy to get them to grow up and ove something. If you just lay your vines on the structure for one night, the tendrils will take over. After that there is no more need for help from you.

Beautiful Fruit – Even though I don’t really love eating winter squash, I do love looking at them. With the exception of the cushaw, most of the winter squash that I am familiar with produce very attractive fruits. When you go to the store to buy “gourds” for your fall arrangements, there’s a good chance you won’t be buying gourds. All of those textured, oddly shaped red, orange, green and gold “gourds” are actually the fruits of several varieties of winter squash. Without getting too botanical, know that if it is woody and hollow, it’s a gourd. If it is solid and has some weight to it, it is a squash (or a pumpkin which is also a squash but that’s another post). One of the most commonly used squash in fall arrangements is the Turk’s Turban. I love this funny looking squash so I am currently growing three vines of it in the row garden. I am also growing Lakota, Galeux d’ Eysines, Black Futsu and The Red Warty Thing (not making that up folks, that is its real name).

The five varieties of winter squash I am currently growing.

Another reason that these lovely squash make such good decorative objects is the fact that they store really well at room temperature. This storage capacity is why people grew them before refrigeration. If the skins and the stems of your squash are not damaged they should stay fresh and attractive in an arrangement for three or four months. I plan to harvest mine toward the end of October. They will then be used throughout the house until after Thanksgiving. At that time, the Christmas decorations will go up and I will be free to eat all of these lovely squash that have served me so well.

Fall Veggie Picks (Cabbage) by Patty Leander

Posted on September 5, 2013 by Jay White

The cole crops that we grow today evolved from wild plants native to the coastal regions of Northwestern Europe and the Mediterranean. Cabbage might well be considered the granddaddy of them all, being the first member of the diverse brassica family to be cultivated.

Growing requirements for cabbage are similar to broccoli and cauliflower – cool weather, moist, fertile soil and at least 6 hours of sun. Plants are fairly tolerant of heat in the early stages of growth but must have cool weather as they mature in order to form a tight head, thus an ideal choice for fall cultivation. Transplants should go into the ground 10-12 weeks before the first freeze date in your area; here in Central Texas brave souls plant in August while the rest of us wait to plant in September, hoping for rain, an overcast day and/or a break in the heat. Once established most cabbages can handle temperatures into the mid-twenties and chilly weather will even sweeten its flavor.

‘Cheers’ cabbage is a blue-green hybrid with excellent disease resistance . All Photos by Bruce Leander

Cabbage varieties can be distinguished by shape (round, flat or pointed), color (green, blue-green, purple or red) and leaf type (smooth or crinkled) and what you choose to grow depends on your personal taste. ‘Golden Acre’, ‘Dynamo’ and ‘Farao’ are early-maturing green varieties that form solid round heads with excellent eating quality. ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ and ‘Charleston Wakefield’ are heirlooms that have been grown in the U.S. since the 1800s but their conical shaped heads still surprise uninitiated gardeners.

‘Alcosa’ savoy cabbage

Purple and red varieties add interest to our gardens, vibrant color and flavor to our food and healthy nutrition to our diets. They contain phytochemicals called anthocyanins which have been associated with improved memory function and reduced cancer risk. Availability of red and purple varieties tends to come and go as breeding improvements are made but current selections to look for include ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Red Acre’ and ‘Red Express’. Blue-green hybrids like ‘Blue Vantage’ or ‘Blue Dynasty’ have been bred with better disease resistance than most of the paler green types so look for those if your cabbage has been less than vigorous in the past. Savoy cabbage has lovely crinkled leaves and a sweet, tender heart. Recommended varieties include ‘Famosa’, ‘Alcosa’ and ‘Savoy Ace’.

Chinese cabbage, also known as Napa cabbage, is a different species from heading cabbage but it is easy to grow and has become very popular for grow-your-own gardeners. It is a vigorous grower with a delicate flavor and is often used for stir-fry and kimchi. Depending on variety it will produce a tight, barrel-shaped head or a loose head of crisp, frilly leaves. ‘Blues’, ‘Tenderheart’ and ‘Bilko’ are reliable producers. If you have trouble finding decent transplants this fall then try growing your own seedlings for planting in late winter or early spring.

Be on the lookout for aphids, especially on the underside of leaves

Be on the lookout for aphids, cabbage loopers and cabbageworms; these common pests can decimate a crop if not controlled. Aphids can be dislodged with a strong spray of water or can be smothered with insecticidal soap. Caterpillars can be controlled with any insecticide that contains the active ingredient Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Another option is to exclude the moth that lays the eggs by covering the plants loosely with lightweight row cover when they are very young. Plants can remain covered throughout the growing season but should be uncovered for fertilizing and periodic inspection.

Exclude the moths that lay caterpillar eggs by covering plants with floating row cover; alternatively handpick the worms if you don’t have many plants or try regular application of Bt insecticide.

Once you harvest your cabbage it can be braised, stuffed, stir-fried, fermented, pickled, shredded for coleslaw, chopped for salad or added to soups. It is fun to try several different types – who knew that common cabbage could be such a diverse and interesting vegetable!

H.O.P.E. for Small Farm Sustainability

Posted on September 1, 2013 by Jay White

No matter how long I garden, I am still amazed at how much food I produce. This spring I had five rows that were 33’ long and three feet wide. In that small amount of space I produced over 300 pounds of tomatoes and 200 pounds of cucumbers. I also produced about a bushel of green beans and my peppers are still producing. Every time I haul in far more tomatoes and cucumbers than my wife will ever be able to can, I think “Wouldn’t it be nice if I could give this to someone that actually needs it”. Unfortunately, thinking about is all I ever do.

Saul and Diana Padilla of Yahweh’s Farm and H.O.P.E for Small Farm Sustainability in Harlingen. Photo by Eloise Montemayor

Luckily, there are some gardeners out there that do more than just think about helping those “that actually need it”. Saul and Diana Padilla are the owners of Yahweh’s All Natural Farm and Garden in Harlingen. Saul and Diana grow and sell organic, seasonal fruits and vegetables through their CSA (Community Supported Agriculture). They also offer free range chickens, goats, rabbits, and farm fresh eggs to their members.

A future farmer helps tend her family’s plot in the H.O.P.E. community garden

Saul and Diana love farming and they feel blessed to be able to to make a living doing what they love. Saul is life-long farmer and Diana was formerly a fine dining chef. When they are not farming, they are working to develop and promote a “Buy Local” food community in the Harlingen area. Because of their involvement with the local food movement they learned that a whole lot of people in their local area could not afford to provide their families with fresh, healthy produce like they were growing on their farm. As Christians, this bothered them so much that they decided to do something about it.

H.O.P.E. community garden grows a whole lot more than vegetables; it is also growing a strong local community of organic food producers

With the help of Kate McSwain , the Padilla’s decided to follow the teachings of Christ who said “… let us not love with words or tongues but with actions and in truth”. They took an acre of their farm out of production and gave it to those in their community that really needed it. The three of them started a program that they call HOPE (Holistic, Outreach, Practical Education) for Small Farm Sustainability. HOPE strives to help people become more self sufficent and food secure by teaching them to produce healthy, organic food for their families.

Local volunteers built beds, installed water lines and continue to support the H.O.P.E. community garden.

Diana persuaded the University of Texas Pan-American to provide a greenhouse, hand tools and a once a week instructor to teach these deserving families how to abundantly produce organic vegetables on their plot. After that they recruited volunteers to help them lay out the plots, install water lines and build the beds. The families that joined the program were free to grow whatever they wanted. With the guidance of the Padilla’s and other volunteers, the first class of H.O.P.E. grew baskets and baskets of fresh melons, cucumbers, squash, onions, corn, beans and peppers. In fact, some of the family plots were so successful that the “HOPE farmers” were able to supplement their income by selling their extra produce at the Harlingen Farmer’s Market (Diana was instrumental in getting this market started).

A beautiful cantelope grows among the corn in the H.O.P.E. community garden.

According to Feeding America (feedingamerica.org), about 1 in 6 Americans go to bed hungry every night. That is a staggering number of people. For someone like me that has enjoyed so many blessings in my life, this statistic truly saddens me. I just cannot imagine how hard it would be to have to send one of my kids to bed hungry. My hat is off to the Padillas. If there were more people like them there would be a lot fewer hungry people in the U.S.

Running an organization like HOPE takes more than volunteer labor and good intentions. Each plot on the HOPE Community Garden uses about $15 worth of water each month. If you would like to help the Padilla’s continue to provide the land and skills needed to change the lives of hungry people in the Valley, please consider a $15 monthly sponsorship. This small donation will ensure that one more family will be able to feed their children “with fruits of their lands and the work of their hands”.

Donations can be addressed to:

H.O.P.E

19741 Morris Road
Harlingen Texas 78552

If you would like to learn more about HOPE you can call Diana at 956-412-4916.

Fall Veggie Picks (Cauliflower) by Patty Leander

Posted on August 28, 2013 by Jay White

Cauliflower’s prima donna reputation is slightly overrated. Yes, it does need consistent moisture and fertile soil, it is susceptible to freezing weather and is stressed by heat but hey, we all have our comfort zones. If you plant the right variety at the right time under the right conditions it will reward you with a large, edible head with a sweet flavor that barely hints of its relation to other members of the cabbage family. White cauliflower is what most gardeners and cooks are familiar with but several varieties produce lovely heads of purple, green and orange.

A colorful cauliflower harvest includes ‘Cheddar’, ‘Snow Crown’, Graffiti’, ‘Green Harmony’ and ‘Veronica’. Photo by Bruce Leander

So how do you keep cauliflower happily growing in your garden? Start with quality, 4-6 week old transplants. Set them in the garden 10-12 weeks before the first freeze in your area and stick with quality hybrid varieties. Here in Texas cauliflower performs better in the fall, when it matures as the weather cools off. Be sure to mulch plants well to help moderate moisture and soil temperature.

If you don’t meet cauliflower’s demands you may end up with an ugly, discolored and distorted head. Photo by Bruce Leander

You can easily grow your own cauliflower transplants from seed. However, it is a little late for that this year. If you want to grow your own transplants you need to start your plants 16 to 18 weeks before the first freeze. If you have to buy transplants, look for strong, healthy transplants at the nursery, but resist the temptation to purchase cauliflower that has already formed a miniature bud. You may think that tiny bud is a head start, but in reality it means that the plant is probably stunted and its growth will never catch up enough to support the formation of that large head of cauliflower that you are anticipating.

Look for healthy transplants; these stunted transplants will never reach their potential. Photo by Bruce Leander

Like broccoli, cauliflower grows best in loose, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 and responds well to regular applications of soluble fertilizer. Slow, steady growth is essential. Development will be stunted if plants are stressed by lack of water, lack of fertility, too much heat or too much cold and the end result will be puny, unimpressive heads. Plants can handle a light frost but be sure to protect them if temperatures are expected to fall below 28°F.

White cauliflower should be blanched to prevent discoloration by the sun. Use a clothespin, rubber band or twine to tie leaves around newly formed heads. Photo by Bruce Leander

White varieties will need to be blanched to maintain their pure white color and mild flavor. This is simple to do: when the head starts to form wrap the inner leaves around it to keep the sun from discoloring it. Secure the leaves with twine, a rubber band or clothespins. Colored varieties do not require blanching but they are best served raw or roasted; if cooked in water they tend to lose their color.

‘Snow Crown’ is a dependable, vigorous and quick-maturing hybrid. Photo by Bruce Leander

The following varieties are recommended for Texas gardens (number in parentheses indicates days to harvest from setting transplants in the garden):

‘Snowball Y’ (70-80 days): an open-pollinated variety that produces flavorful, 6” heads; not as early as most white hybrids

‘Snow Crown’ (50-60 days): a popular All-America Selections winner that grows well in all regions of Texas; early-maturing plants produce large, uniform heads

‘Graffiti’ (80 days): striking purple heads are worth the extra time in the garden; color fades when cooked in water so best served raw, roasted or lightly steamed

‘Vitaverde’ (76 days): this hybrid “broccoflower” possesses characteristics of both broccoli and cauliflower; suitable for fresh-eating, roasting and stir-fries

‘Cheddar’ (58-68 days): mild-flavored, orange heads contain high levels of beta-carotene

‘Veronica’ (78 days) and ‘Tipoff’ (72 days): these lime-green Romanesco-type cauliflowers of Italian origin produce unusual spiral-shaped heads

‘Veronica’ is a romanesco variety that produces conical whorls of mild-tasting florets. Photo by Bruce Leander

Fall Veggie Picks (Broccoli) by Patty Leander

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Jay White

Broccoli comes with its own bonus: sides shoots form on the plant after the main head is harvested

Broccoli belongs to a big, health-promoting family of vegetables known as the brassicas; sometimes referred to as cole crops. From arugula to turnips, this nutrient and phytochemical packed group includes Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard, radish and numerous Asian vegetables. Broccoli ranks near the top as one of America’s all-time favorite garden vegetables and for good reason. If given a good start and proper care it is easy to grow, and all parts of the plant – crunchy stalks, hearty leaves and deliciously tender flower buds – are edible. And broccoli offers a bonus of multiple side shoots that are produced after the main head is harvested.

Home-grown broccoli transplants ready to be set out into the garden

Like all brassicas, broccoli is a cool season plant. It grows best in a temperature range of 50°-80° and once established can tolerate temperatures into the low 30s. Broccoli should be transplanted into the garden in early fall and if time and space allow stagger your plantings over a 2-3 week period so that all those heads of broccoli are not ready to harvest at the same time. Here in Central Texas we generally start planting in early September and continue into October. Check with your local Extension office or ask experienced gardeners for appropriate planting times in your area.

It takes a big, healthy plant to grow a big delicious head of broccoli

In order for broccoli to develop a big head it needs to first develop strong roots and healthy leaves. Prepare the soil by working in a layer of compost and about ½-1 cup of complete fertilizer per 10 foot row. A 15-5-10 lawn-type fertilizer (15% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, 10% potassium) offers an adequate amount of nitrogen to support leafy growth but if you prefer to use an organic garden fertilizer double the amount since the percentage of nitrogen will likely be lower. Give plants plenty of room to grow by spacing them at least 12-18” apart. Water transplants in with a water soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength and for the first week or two use shade cloth, an old window screen or even an umbrella to help protect young transplants from the heat and sun. Broccoli will be ready to harvest in about 8 weeks but stress caused by high heat, lack of moisture or insect damage in the early stages will slow growth and cause smaller heads. Give plants a boost by sidedressing with 2-4 tablespoons of high nitrogen fertilizer when the head begins to form and again just after harvest. Ammonium sulfate (synthetic) and blood meal (organic) are both good choices.

A little shade will give young transplants a chance to acclimate to their new environment. BTW, did you see that A&M is ranked Number 7!!!

The main pest to watch out for is the cabbage looper which can do serious damage in a few short days. Carefully check the underside of the leaves for the small, green worms and remove them or dust them with a product that contains Bt. Considered an organic control, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring bacterium that lives in the soil and is toxic solely to caterpillars. Be careful to spray it only where caterpillars are doing damage and repeat applications following label instructions.

‘Blue Wind’ broccoli grows happily in a large pot

Hybrid varieties of broccoli include ‘Arcadia’, ‘Belstar’, ‘Green Goliath’, ‘Marathon’ and ‘Packman’. Popular open-pollinated varieties include ‘De Cicco’ and ‘Calabrese’, both heirlooms that came to America with Italian immigrants in the late 1800s. Rather than forming one large head, these sprouting broccolis produce a few smaller central heads followed by several side shoots. ‘Blue Wind’ and ‘Small Miracle’ are suitable for container cultivation. Don’t confuse sprouting broccoli with broccoli raab, which may have broccoli in its name but is more closely related to turnip and shares that typical sharp, slightly bitter flavor.

Summer Vacation

Posted on August 12, 2013 by Jay White

A view of Mt. Baker from the ferry that shuttled us between the San Juan Islands

Sally and I just got back from a much needed vacation to the Pacific Northwest. This post is not a back handed attempt to make you look at my vacation photos. However, I saw so many amazing horticultural things while I was there, I didn’t think you would mind. Since most of us grow in a place with too much heat and not enough water, I thought you would enjoy seeing what happens to plants when they get plenty of water and just the right amount of heat.

These flowers were organically grown in the field on San Juan Island. This picture was taken on July 29. I promise, there is nothing like this blooming in “my fields” on July 29.

Our youngest daughter Whitney recently moved to Seattle to build a floral design firm that specializes in organic, field grown, fresh cut flowers. Because of all of her contacts, she was a great little tour guide.

The Madrone is a native tree to the area. It has red bark and lime green skin. While photographing this, an attractive, sharply dressed 60ish woman told me the first time she “dropped acid” she saw one of these and thought it was the drugs that made it turn such crazy colors. I assure you, I have never heard a story like that in Brenham!

Our first stop was The Good Earth Centre. This organic vegetable farm is the brain child and passion of Gary Miller and Amy Plant. Gary and Amy are two people that are truly committed to leaving the earth better than they found it. This farm is much more than a business. They practice no till, 100% organic and sustainable methods to provide the highest quality produce possible to the local restaurants that serve a clientele that cares very strongly about how their food was produced. By serving as a host farm for interns from the Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms and hosting self-sufficiency workshops and seminars, they are influencing the way the next generation of farmers grow and care for the earth. Whitney met this couple when she was WOOFing on their farm. It was indeed a pleasure for me to meet the two dedicated and visionary people that made a big impact on my daughter’s future in the world of sustainable agriculture.

The fields of the Good Earth Center. If you are going to farm, you might as farm in a place that looks like this!

The fields of the Good Earth Centre. If you are going to farm, you might as farm in a place that looks like this!

After leaving the Good Earth Centre we made our way to Lopez Village. We spent the next three days exploring all that the San Juan’s had to offer. Even though the natural beauty was over whelming, the ornamental plantings are what really captured my attention. I was surprised to see the same flowers growing up there as we grow down here. However, their flowers were bigger, brighter and healthier. One of the first things that stopped me in my tracks was a bed of FIVE FEET TALL DAISIES! Evidently, if you are a flower grower that wants to grow the best possible daisies, lavender, snapdragons, buddleia or anything else, the the Pacific Northwest is the place to be. Everywhere we went I kept thinking “This must be what the Garden of Eden was like and I live in the place that God sent them to after the unfortunate incident with the apple”.

My lovely wife in front of a bunch of gerber daiseys that are almost as tall as her!

My lovely wife in front of a bunch of gerber daisies that are almost as tall as her!

Now before I carry on too much about how horticulturally wonderful things are up there, let me assure you that I did find at least one thing that they can never do as well as we do here in Texas — grow a tomato! Since tomatoes need high temps with hot nights to properly develop their sugars, the Northwest will never ever be able to grow a tomato that tastes any better than those pale and pasty things offered by the chain grocers.

I found these lovely hierloom tomatoes at the Friday Harbor Farmers Market on San Juan Island. They sure were pretty and I paid $1 a piece for some. They were sweet and watery. They may grow pretty flowers but they need to leave the tomato growing to us!

Fall Garden Experiment – Growing Sweet Potatoes in Containers

Posted on August 5, 2013 by Jay White

Back in the spring I did another one of my experiments. I planted marigolds all around four Roma tomato plants to see if they would keep away the stink bugs. When I did it, I really didn’t expect too much. Even though the belief that marigolds repel stink bugs is so pervasive that it is assumed to be a fact, I wanted to see for myself.

Marigolds surrond the Roma tomatoes in my potager

Well, I am happy to report that I was wrong (kind of). Based on my results, there may be some truth to the belief that planting marigolds with tomatoes helps repel bugs. Early in the season, when I compared the number of bugs on my marigold encircled tomatoes to those planted in my row garden, the insect numbers were much lower. However, by the end of the season (when the marigolds were infested with spider mites and stink bug populations were high) there appeared to be no noticeable difference. Based on this, I am willing to say that if you want to use marigolds to repel bugs in your tomatoes, it is worth giving it a try. While the marigolds will not keep your plants bug free, they do apparently reduce the severity of infestations over the season.

I did the marigold experiment to test a “horticultural fact/wives tale”. The one I am doing now is using sweet potatoes to test a couple of things. First, I want try and figure out why you have to grow sweet potatoes from slips. Quite frankly, I don’t think you do. However, this practice is so widely accepted that I could find absolutely nothing on the internet about growing sweet potatoes without slips. Based on this highly unscientific research, the uninitiated might believe it is impossible to grow sweet potatoes without using slips. I know this is note true. I mean nature doesn’t produce slips that have to transplanted. No, sweet potatoes have survived for thousands and thousands of years by making a tuber that stays dormant in the ground until temperature and day length tells it to start producing vines.

My first experiment is to see if you get more potatoes from slips than you do from planting a whole potato. To test this I am growing sweet potatoes in two raised containers. The containers I am using are “Smart Pots”. These “Smart Pots” are 15 gallon fiber bags that are designed for growing squash and potatoes.

I filled both pots with an identical media that I created by mixing river sand and mushroom compost in equal parts. In one of the containers, I have planted a whole sweet potato. In the other container I planted a slip. If everything I have read is true, I should be able to dump my pots over in 100 days or so and harvest a bunch of sweet potatoes. It will be interesting to see which method produces the most potatoes.

I love the heart shapped foliage of sweet potatoes

This leads to the second test. I have grown sweet potatoes in my gardens before. However, my gardens are built on black clay. Because of this, even though the sweet potatoes grow pretty well, they are very difficult to get out of the ground. Since I truly love sweet potatoes, I am hoping that growing in pots will provide me a way to produce a respectable crop that is easy to harvest. If it works out I will have absolutely no problem switching from growing them in the ground to growing them in pots.

Wish me luck and don’t forget to check back in a 100 days or so to see how it goes!

Harvesting and Curing Onions (Part 2) By Patty Leander

Posted on June 12, 2013 by Jay White

Onions ready for harvest. Photo by Bruce Leander

Onions will let you know they are finished growing when their necks soften and topple over; this is a natural occurrence and it’s a myth that they need our help doing this. Some gardeners think that knocking the tops over prematurely will encourage larger bulbs but actually it’s the tops that manufacture the sugars and energy that cause the bulbs to enlarge and when the necks are broken prematurely that process slows to a halt. As I learned from long-time farmer’s market gardener June Russell, of Midland, Texas, “onions have the sense to lay over on their own”.

Wait till the tops fall over before harvesting onions. Photo by Bruce Leander

Onions also bulb in response to day length and in Central Texas where I live the short day onion varieties that we plant in the winter begin bulb formation in springtime as the day length reaches 11-12 hours. In the northern half of the state gardeners grow intermediate day onions which require 12-14 hours of daylight and in colder parts of the country where onions mature during the longer days of summer gardeners grow long day onion varieties that require at least 14 hours of daylight. If you have onions that don’t bulb properly then chances are pretty good that you are growing the wrong type of onions for your region.

Onions and garlic drying on a bench in the shade. Photo by Bruce Leander

My short day onions are usually ready to harvest in late May or early June. Once the necks start to fall over it’s a good idea to cut back on water for a few days and let the soil dry out before harvesting. After the soil has dried out for a few days hold onto the stem of each onion and coax them gently from the soil then spread them out in a dry, shady spot to cure for at least 5-7 days. Go ahead and harvest any onions that send up a flower stalk – they are perfectly edible but they will not store very well so eat them first. Prepare dry onions for storage by trimming the roots and cutting off the dried leaves then drop them, one at a time, into a mesh bag or a length of nylon pantyhose. Tie a knot or a twist tie between each onion, then when you need an onion for cooking just snip off the lowest onion just below the knot, leaving the others for later. I hang my onions on a hook inside the pantry so they are always at the ready. They can also be stored in a flat box or crate in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (in other words do not store them in a closed bin or box). An alternative method that works especially well with smaller onions is to leave the tops intact and braid them together. Short day onions do not store as long as long day varieties, but if properly cured they will last about 3 months.

After drying, onions tops and roots are trimmed in preparation for storage. Photo by Bruce Leander

The organosulfides that give onions their pungent taste and smell also have powerful cancer-fighting properties. Since heat can destroy these compounds raw onion will have the highest concentration, but eating lots of raw onions can be hard on those with sensitive digestive systems so a quick sauté is the next best thing. It will lessen the pungency of the onions while retaining most of the organosulfide compounds.

Don't through out those old panty house. the make great storage for your onions! Photo by Bruce Leander

Don’t throw out those old panty hose. They make great storage for your onions! Photo by Bruce Leander

Tomato Trellises

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Jay White

If you have ever grown tomatoes, you know they have to be trellised. If this is going to be your first year growing tomatoes, understand that “they have to be trellised”. I have yet to meet the tomato bush that does not grow so big that it can fully support itself. I guess that’s not true really. All tomatoes can support themselves in their own way. However, their way involves sprawling all over the ground. This sprawl will work fine for the tomato since all it really cares about is reproducing. It doesn’t care if its seeds are in fruit lying on the ground or if the seeds are in fruit that is 6’ up in the air. However, as gardeners, we care very much where the tomato seeds (fruit) are on the plant. Because of this, if you are going to grow them successfully, you have to support them.

A homemade tomato trellis in my potager

Why Trellis? – Since the tomato plant has the ability to create roots anywhere along its stem, tomatoes vines will root wherever they touch the ground. This will create an ever wider and wider bush if left alone. All of that vining uses up nutrients that can and should be channeled into fruit production. Trellises allow you to prevent this. A properly trellised tomato will have one and only one point of contact with the soil. This will allow you to control branching and keep your fruit from lying on the ground where it will quickly cause rot and attract insects, bunnies and other pests.

Trellising adds support to limbs that can become very heavy when laden with fruit. High winds are the enemy of large tomato plants and the trellis will provide extra protection against it. Also, trellising allows you the added support needed to open the bush up through pruning. This increased air flow through the plant allows moist plants to dry quickly (thus limiting fungal infections). An open bush also makes tomato harvest easier and it provides access to the inside of the bush if you need to apply organic or inorganic pesticides.

This “Celebrity” has already outgrown its store bought cage and it is only half grown

Types of Trellises – Trellises can be very simple or very elaborate. You have to decide what works best for you. A local greenhouse grows a hydroponic “tomato forest”. Their vines grow ten to twelve feet in the air. They grow these massive vines by clipping them to a single nylon cord attached to the roof and the growing area. You can’t get much simpler than one string!

Bill uses “hog rings” to assemble his cages. You can see full instruction in his book, “The Texas Tomato Lover’s Handbook”. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be reused without witten consent.

Probably the most commonly used trellises are those welded wire rings that we get at the big box or local garden center. While convenient, I have found that even the largest ones sold are inadequate for my needs. If you are growing two or three plants in pots, the store bought “cages” will probably be fine for you. If you are going to buy cages, I recommend you buy the biggest ones available. Since these cages are made out of small gauge wire, their welds are weak and they will begin to break apart after just a few uses.

Sturdy cages allow you to apply shade cloth that will protect your young plants from cold, wind and some bug damage. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be reused without written consent.

A common homemade version of the tomato cage is made by bending a heavy gauge wire mesh into a circular cage. These work very well, but storage can be a problem. Since they can’t be stacked inside each other (like the store bought cages) they can take up a lot of room in the garage. Also, since they don’t have long wire “legs” like the store bought version, you will have to find a way to stake them. Rebar and zip ties work very well for securing them to the ground.

My friend Bill Adams cuts cattle panels into three sections and then ties them together in a trianglular shape with metal clips (read more about these in his book “The Texas Tomato Lover’s Handbook”). These are really great. They are tall enough and strong enough to support the bushiest tomatoes out there. After assembly, he uses a “T-Post” to secure the cage in place. Theses “cattle panel cages” are durable enough to last a lifetime. Plus, they provide a perfect surface to add shade cloth. Shade cloth can do so much for your tomatoes. If you use it when you first put the plants out, you can easily add a top to the shade covered cage to keep in heat and avoid damage from a late season cold snap. The shade cloth will also protect your tender young plants from sun scald, wind damage and also add some insect protection. While there is some cost associated with this method, your cages will give you a lifetime of service. In addition to durability, they are also very practicle. At the end of the season, you can easily disassemble them and store your panels flat against the garage wall.

Bills cages provide all of the support and protection your tomatoes will ever need. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be used with written consent.

I also use cattle panels to support my tomatoes. However, I don’t cut my panels up. I line my tomato rows with cattle panels on each side of the row. I place my panels about 32’ to 36” apart and support them with T-Posts. As the tomatoes begin to bush, I can slip bamboo lengthwise through the panels to support any branches that become heavy with fruit. There is one slight drawback to my method. Since the tomatoes are grown between panels, I have to do all of my harvest and pruning “through the fence”. However, the squares on the panels are large so this is only a minor inconvenience.

I grow my tomatoes between two rows of cattle panels

In my potager, I grow my tomatoes on “decorative” trellises that I made by wiring together small cedar limbs. These trellises are very attractive and, since they are cedar, they last a very long time. While not as functional as the cattle panels or the cages, they work well for determinate tomatoes. This year, I am growing romas in them. Roma tomatoes create a nice, neat, and compact bush that do not require as much support as an heirloom or big indeterminate like “Better Boy”.

I am currently growing roma tomatoes in my homemade, cedar trellises. These trellises are six years old and still going strong

2013 Garden Experiment-Companion Planting of Marigolds and Tomatoes

Posted on April 16, 2013 by Jay White

Each year I like to try some kind of experiment in the garden. I truly believe that the best way to become a better gardener is to try new things. This year I will be putting one of the most commonly talked about organic pest control methods to the test. I am going to try a companion planting of tomatoes and marigolds to keep the stink bugs away.

One of my “porch grown” marigolds is about ready to bloom

If you believe everything you read, then you no doubt believe that marigolds are miracle plants. It is truly amazing to me how many articles/posts there are on the internet making incredible claims about their bug fighting abilities. One of the more recent things I read swears that all you have to do is plant a marigold in each corner of your garden and all of your bug problems are solved. While there may be some truth to the marigold’s bug fighting abilities, I really don’t believe they are going to very successful at riding my tomatoes of their stink bugs.

The above marigold two days after opening

Now don’t get me wrong. I really want my experiment to work. In fact, I have gone out of my way to give the marigolds as much of a chance as possible. Instead of trying to plant four plants in the corners of my garden, I am going to completely surround the tomatoes in marigolds. For this experiment, I grew about 100 marigold plants from seed in my new back porch seed starting rack. Once the little plants got up to about four inches tall I used them to line the triangular beds of my potager. I planted the starts six inches in from edge and spaced them at six inches. It took about 20 plants to line each bed.

My first “bug fighting” marigold of the year

Once the flowers were in, I planted the tomatoes. For this experiment I am using romas. Romas grow on nice, neat determinate bushes. My thought is, those nice, compact determinate bushes will give all of those pesky bugs fewer places to hide. I am also hoping that their relatively open form will allow whatever magic bug fighting qualities the marigolds possess to waft freely deep into the bush where the bugs are hiding.

Holidays mean free labor. My daughter jessie helps me plant the marigolds for my experiment on Easter Sunday

I apologize a little about my attitude here. I really, really, really want the marigolds to run all of the bugs off. However, I am very skeptical. Even though I am doubtful of the marigold’s bug fighting abilities, I do truly expect they will keep any nematode issues at bay. It is a proven, scientific fact that marigold roots secrete alpha-terthienyl. This compound has insecticidal, nematodial and anti-viral properties. It also stops nematode eggs from hatching.

I love my larkspur. This has absolutely nothing to do with the experiment but it is lovely and i just wanted to include it!

My last big garden experiment was growing potatoes in a box. That one was a complete failure. I had very high hopes for that one when the experiment started. For this one, my expectations are a bit lower. I expect to have almost aero nematode problems but I really don’t expect the marigolds to be very successful at keeping the bugs away. Only time will tell. Check back at the end of the season to see how it goes.