Rain Lilies (Zephyranthes, Habranthus and Cooperia spp.)

Posted on July 24, 2013 by Jay White

This has been a most unusual July at the White House. Early on, we had a week where the high temperatures for the days stayed in the 80’s and the night time temps were in the 60s. These amazingly pleasant temps were brought to us by an unusual cold front that dipped down from Canada. Along with the cooler weather, the front brought rain! Twice during that blessed cool spell our rain gauge captured a ½ inch of rain. If an inch of rain and nights in the 60’s weren’t enough to make us forget that this really was Texas in July, this past Sunday lightening crashed, thunder rolled and the heavens opened up and delivered us another inch and a half of rain!

Zephranthes grandiflora in Cynthia Mueller’s College Station garden

While all of this rain has been much appreciated by all the plants in our yard, the ones that have shown their appreciation the most are the rain lilies. Sally and I recently visited my dear friend Cynthia Mueller in College Station. As I have mentioned before, Cynthia is one of the most knowledgeable and generous plant people I have ever met. She is also a lover of these amazingly tough and beautiful flowers.

This lovely white Rain Lily in Cynthia’s garden is a cross between the Giant Rain Lily Cooperia, and a Habranthus.

Thanks to these summer showers, Cynthia’s gardens were bursting with the color and smells of these utterly reliable plants. Even though these flowers are called lilies, they actually belong to the Amaryllis family. Rain lily is really a generic term that applies to approximately 70 species of plants that belong in three different genus: Zephyranthes, Habranthus and Cooperia.

The lovely pink Habranthus brachyandrus in Cynthia’s garden

While rain lilies come from many families, they all share a few traits that make them great plants for the Texas gardener. First, they are all native to the Americas so they do extremely well in zones 8 through 10. Another thing that I like about them is the fact that they are bulbs. Bulbing plants are hardy plants. However, the absolute best thing about rain lilies is their durability. They truly are a plant that you can plant, forget and enjoy more and more with each passing year.

Zaphranthes drummondi in my yard. I grew these from seeds shared with me by Cynthia Mueller of College Station

Rainlilies are becoming a little more popular in the nursery trade. Since they are small, durable and adaptable they are great for people that have limited space. Because of their reliability, they are also great choices for people that don’t have the time or desire to deal with “fussy” plants.

If you want to grow your own rain lilies you should either grow them yourself from seed (read Cynthia’s article on how to do this here) or buy established plants. While it is possible to grow them from bulbs you need to be a little wary of buying these. If rain lilies have any drawbacks, it is the fact that their bulbs do not like to be out of the ground for very long. However, this does not mean that you cannot transplant the bulbs. Since many of these plants naturalize so readily here, you can quickly find yourself with big, thick drifts of flowers. If this happens, thin your stand by digging and moving the bulbs to other locations on your property.

Rain lilies produce lots of little seeds that are easy to gather and propogate

Whether moving established bulbs or planting established plants from nurseries, it is best to place them in an area that receives a little shade. Since most of their flowers only last a day or two, a little shade can help your plants produce their most vibrant blooms and extend their bloom time. Because of this, many people plant their rain lilies around the base of the trees in their yards.

This past week I have noticed more and more rain lilies under the trees and in the ditches of the rural roads of Washington county. I smile every time I see one. You see, I absolutely love reliable and carefree plants and no plant that I know of is as beautiful, reliable and care free as the group of plants we call rain lilies. If you are looking for something that will thrive in our climate with absolutely no help from you, then rain lilies are are a group of plants that you really need to add to your garden collection.

Celebrating the Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia)

Posted on July 10, 2013 by Jay White

Sally and I celebrated the Fourth of July with our daughter and son-in-law in Oklahoma City. While there, we visited the Oklahoma City National Memorial & Museum. What a lovely and moving place. Things like this make me so proud to be an American. I truly believe that there has never been another group of people that can better come together after a tragedy and turn it into a silver lining. While there is no doubt that what Timothy McVeigh did on that April day was horrible, the people of Oklahoma rose above it and created a lovely and peaceful place that memorializes those lost and celebrates the sacrifice of the volunteers that turned the horror of that day into a place where all can celebrate the indomitable American Spirit.

Each of these beautiful chairs memorialize on of the victims of this senseless tragedy

Each of these beautiful chairs memorialize one of the victims of this senseless tragedy

Two minutes after Timothy McVeigh lit the fuse of his bomb, 168 men, women and small children were gone; so was the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building. An additional 300 buildings in the downtown area were damaged. About the only thing left standing at the blast site was a large American Elm tree that is now called “The Survivor’s Tree”. This tree is now the center piece of a horticultural tribute to resilience of the American people.

This Elm tree was about the only thing to survive the blast. The “Survivor Tree” is a testamnet to the reseliance of the human spirit.

Elm trees in general are incredibly hardy trees. One example in Ontario, Canada grew to 140’ tall. Elms can take extreme cold, extreme heat and endure extreme drought. At the beginning of the last century they were the most commonly planted tree in America. However, around 1928, disaster struck in the form of a small black beetle that spread a fungus called “Dutch Elm” disease. This disease decimated elm populations that had no resistance to this Asian invader. Dutch Elm Disease is still a serious problem. However, if you have the money, there are now treatments that can save an infected elm if the infection is caught soon enough.

If you are a Texan and you have an affinity for these hardy trees, you are in luck. Texas has a native elm that is very resistant to Dutch Elm Disease. In fact, the Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia) is resistant to most pests. While its leaves are sometimes nibbled by the Elm Leaf Beetles, there is not much else that bothers it. This cedar elm makes a great shade tree and it is extremely drought tolerant.

This lovely print is courtesy of the Texas A&M Forsetry Service Tree Planting Guide at:
http://texastreeplanting.tamu.edu/Display_Onetree.aspx?tid=100

According to my friend Morgan McBride of Tree Town USA, cedar elms are a great choice for most Texas landscapes. These lovely trees are covered in small, oval, serrated leaves that are rough to the touch and turn yellow in the fall. They can grow in sandy soils and in thick clay soils. In fact they can even grow in the highly compacted soils that are common in urban areas. These adaptable trees have a moderate growth rate and only require a moderate amount of water to thrive. They can grow to 60’ tall and develop a spread of over 40’.

Cedar elms develop a deep root system that allows them to withstand drought and most windstorms. If you go to a nursery and ask for an elm for your yard, you need to insist on the cedar elm. Many nurseries stock the Chinese Lacebark Elm and will often offer it as a substitute. While the tree does have a lovely rough bark, it develops a shallow root system that makes it easy prey for windstorms. Also, the Chinese Lacebark is susceptible to cotton root rot. Because of this, you are taking a risk if you plant it anywhere in our state that once grew cotton (and since most of our state once grew cotton, you really need to think about this when you make your elm choice).

My buddy Morgan is selecting a Cedar Elm for a client. Notice that he really is touching it with a 10′ pole. Don’t know why that is so funny to me but he really does travel around with a 10′ pole in his car at all times.

Like the people of Oklahoma, elm trees were attacked and decimated by an unexpected enemy. However, they survived. Now this American classic is making a comeback. I love elm trees and I am so glad that the people of Oklahoma saved their “The Survivor Tree”. This deep rooted, dependable and resilient tree is the perfect centerpiece for a memorial that is dedicated to faith, healing and the resilience of the American spirit.

This post has been shared on the HomeAcre Hop and the Homestead Barn Hop. These hops are great way to gather information from some of the best bloggers on the web. Be sure to check it out!

This is a detail of a large statue that stands on the site of the old rectory of St. Joseph Catholic Church. the rectory was destroyed in the blast. This statue is called "Jesus Wept" and it based on the shortest verse in the bible; John 11:35

This is a detail of a large statue that stands on the site of the old rectory of St. Joseph Catholic Church in OKC. The rectory was destroyed by the April 19 bombing. This statue is called “Jesus Wept” and it is based on the shortest verse in the bible; John 11:35

Working too hard!

Posted on June 25, 2013 by Jay White

Today marks 30 days in a row without a break from my real job. Partly because of that and partly because I had a chicken coop to finish and an article due to Texas Gardener magazine, I have not had a chance to work on the blog. So today, I am going to post a few random things I have noticed in and around my gardens the past couple of weeks.

First, since I mentioned working too hard, I would like to announce to gardeners around the world — YOU ARE WORKING TOO HARD! I discovered this fact quite by accident. If you look at the pic below you will see a “garden” that is full of castor beans, zinnias, dill, and datura. I think it is lovely. However, I didn’t grow it. This lovely garden popped up this year on top of last year’s burn pile. This “garden” has recieved NO SUPPLEMENTAL WATER, no fertilize and no weeding. The take away? If you want a no fuss summer color garden next year plant lots of zinnias and a datura or two for effect. Back it up with a wall of castor beans and sprinkle some dill in for a filler. Then forget it!

Second, the chickens are consuming every spare minute. If I have not been engaged in building them a palace, then I have been sitting in my yard with my wife watching them. They are hilarious and interesting all at the same time. Any way, while sitting in our favorite spot in front of a bunch of Maximillian Sunflowers, I noticed little globs of “snake spit” all over the sunflower stalks. Ever seen “snake spit”? It is a frothy white liquid that sticks to certain plants and looks a lot like , well, spit. No other way to describe it. Turns out though, it isn’t really spit. It is the frothy protective covering of the nymph form of the Spittle Bug. As soon as baby spittlebugs hatch they start feeding on the sap of their host and using it to make the “spit”. They actually live inside the “spit” until they are big enough to fly away. Turns out the “spit” keeps them moist, warm at night and cool in the day.

“Snakespit” on Maximillian Sunflower

My buddy Bruce Leander is a dang fine photographer from Austin. He can shoot anything but he specializes in Texas native flowers. If I ever need a picture for an article he is the guy I go to. I truly believe he has photographed every kind of plant and bug in Texas (and beyond). He sent me these amzing shots of the ugly little bug that lives under all of that “snake spit”.

Spittlebug photos by Bruce Leander

Since we’re talking “snake spit”, be aware that it is definately snake season again. Last week my wife killed another coral snake in the yard and I killed a copperhead. In addition to that I caught a rat snake that I chose to relocate. So, when you go out in the garden make sure you wear good sturdy shoes and take a stick with you. You just never know what you are going to find under those tomato bushes.

Poor coral snake. He crossed the yard at the wrong time

Copperheads may be pretty, but they are mean! I personally know three people that were bitten by them in Washington County last summer.

And finally, not only is it snake season, it is tomato season. I have 17 plants and I am bringing in about 8 lbs of tomatoes a day. My poor wife is so busy canning salsa, paste and whole tomatoes. Below is a picture from Harry Cabluck of Austin. Harry is a pretty famous photographer. He is also a gardener and reader of this blog. Check out the pic of one of his harvests and also take a minute to look at some truly amazing photgraphs on his website (http://www.harrycabluck.com/site/Home.html).

Tomatoes from MOH reader Harry Cabluck’s Austin garden – Juanne Flamme, Porter(ish) volunteer, Early Wonder, Gregori’s Altai (grafted onto Maxifort).

Almost forgot to mention the Chickens. Our girls are 8 weeks old tomorrow. They are still adjusting to their new home. Each night I sit with them and help them feel more comfortable. Sally calls me their “rooster”.

Harvesting and Curing Onions (Part 2) By Patty Leander

Posted on June 12, 2013 by Jay White

Onions ready for harvest. Photo by Bruce Leander

Onions will let you know they are finished growing when their necks soften and topple over; this is a natural occurrence and it’s a myth that they need our help doing this. Some gardeners think that knocking the tops over prematurely will encourage larger bulbs but actually it’s the tops that manufacture the sugars and energy that cause the bulbs to enlarge and when the necks are broken prematurely that process slows to a halt. As I learned from long-time farmer’s market gardener June Russell, of Midland, Texas, “onions have the sense to lay over on their own”.

Wait till the tops fall over before harvesting onions. Photo by Bruce Leander

Onions also bulb in response to day length and in Central Texas where I live the short day onion varieties that we plant in the winter begin bulb formation in springtime as the day length reaches 11-12 hours. In the northern half of the state gardeners grow intermediate day onions which require 12-14 hours of daylight and in colder parts of the country where onions mature during the longer days of summer gardeners grow long day onion varieties that require at least 14 hours of daylight. If you have onions that don’t bulb properly then chances are pretty good that you are growing the wrong type of onions for your region.

Onions and garlic drying on a bench in the shade. Photo by Bruce Leander

My short day onions are usually ready to harvest in late May or early June. Once the necks start to fall over it’s a good idea to cut back on water for a few days and let the soil dry out before harvesting. After the soil has dried out for a few days hold onto the stem of each onion and coax them gently from the soil then spread them out in a dry, shady spot to cure for at least 5-7 days. Go ahead and harvest any onions that send up a flower stalk – they are perfectly edible but they will not store very well so eat them first. Prepare dry onions for storage by trimming the roots and cutting off the dried leaves then drop them, one at a time, into a mesh bag or a length of nylon pantyhose. Tie a knot or a twist tie between each onion, then when you need an onion for cooking just snip off the lowest onion just below the knot, leaving the others for later. I hang my onions on a hook inside the pantry so they are always at the ready. They can also be stored in a flat box or crate in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (in other words do not store them in a closed bin or box). An alternative method that works especially well with smaller onions is to leave the tops intact and braid them together. Short day onions do not store as long as long day varieties, but if properly cured they will last about 3 months.

After drying, onions tops and roots are trimmed in preparation for storage. Photo by Bruce Leander

The organosulfides that give onions their pungent taste and smell also have powerful cancer-fighting properties. Since heat can destroy these compounds raw onion will have the highest concentration, but eating lots of raw onions can be hard on those with sensitive digestive systems so a quick sauté is the next best thing. It will lessen the pungency of the onions while retaining most of the organosulfide compounds.

Don't through out those old panty house. the make great storage for your onions! Photo by Bruce Leander

Don’t throw out those old panty hose. They make great storage for your onions! Photo by Bruce Leander

The Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa)

Posted on June 6, 2013 by Jay White

Image from the Texas A&M Tree Selector website at
http://texastreeplanting.tamu.edu/Display_Onetree.aspx?tid=80

I am often asked “What is the fastest growing shade tree for my yard?” When I recommend the bur oak I am often met with skepticism. A lot of people initially argue with me about my suggestion (which always makes me wonder why they asked for my opinion if they didn’t want it). They are quick to bring up all of the common issues associated with oaks (in general). We’ve all heard them. Oaks are slow growing. Their roots grow on top of the soil and damage your slab or your sidewalks. They get oak wilt. While each of those statements are true in some measure in certain oak species, none of them apply to the bur oak.

The bur oak is one of the fastest growing and the largest of all of the oaks in Texas. With normal water, you can expect the tree to grow a minimum of one foot per year. With ample water and a little fertilizer it is not uncommon to get two or three feet of growth per year out of your bur oak.

This 95 gallon Bur oak is about 5 years old and is already 14′ tall. Photo by Morgan McBride

Bur oaks are truly impressive specimens. Besides cottonwoods, they are the only deciduous tree in Texas that can get over 100’ tall. Plus, they can develop a canopy that spreads to 80’. There are not many trees that can support a canopy that is 80’. The bur oak can do this because it is an amazingly well built tree. It develops a thick trunk and an intertwining mass of heavy branches that are seldom affected by winds or ice storms. This structure is very pretty and can be appreciated when it drops its yellow leaves in the fall.

The bur oak has lovely, deeply lobed leaves that turn yellow in the fall

Another reason I love the bur oak is the fact that it is native to most of Texas. This tree has been adapting to our soils and our climate for thousands and thousands of years. Because of its adaptability, you can be pretty certain that the bur oak will thrive for you whether you live in the deep, rich alluvial bottom lands of Texas’ river basins or if you live in the Hill Country that is famous for its the thin, alkaline soils that cover a limestone pan.

Because it is native, the bur oak also takes the extremes of our climate in stride. The drought of 2011 killed many, many live oaks. The live oaks died because they have a shallow root system that grows right at the soil line (and breaks slabs and sidewalks). The bur oak survived the worst drought in our history because it develops a deep tap root that can find the underground moisture needed to sustain it when the rains fail us. This deep rooting structure not only keeps it alive in low water situations but also makes it a great choice for the landscape. Deep roots do not break slab and sidewalks.

As much as I love this tree, it does have one little problem – it produces golf ball sized acorns. I have to admit, that since the acorns are large enough to interfere with mowing or heavy enough to ding a new car, you should think long and hard about where you plant it. The good news is, it doesn’t produce a ton of acorns. And, since they don’t fall but once a year in autumn, they can be managed by setting your mower a little higher or picking them up (they look great in a bowl on a table) before you mow. Besides, since the squirrels and the deer love them you will have a little help getting them out of your yard.

I truly believe the bur oak is the best choice for a fast growing Texas shade tree. Even though my friends are often skeptical, my buddy Morgan McBride is not. Morgan is a salesman for Tree Town USA and a bona fide tree expert. Tree Town produces many varieties of trees that Morgan can recommend to his many customers. However he always recommends the bur oak first. Despite the large acorns, this Texas native is almost entirely pest free and its roots grow down instead of out. With its beautiful foliage and growth rate of 1 to 2 feet per year, the bur oak really is hard to beat.

Tomato Trellises

Posted on May 21, 2013 by Jay White

If you have ever grown tomatoes, you know they have to be trellised. If this is going to be your first year growing tomatoes, understand that “they have to be trellised”. I have yet to meet the tomato bush that does not grow so big that it can fully support itself. I guess that’s not true really. All tomatoes can support themselves in their own way. However, their way involves sprawling all over the ground. This sprawl will work fine for the tomato since all it really cares about is reproducing. It doesn’t care if its seeds are in fruit lying on the ground or if the seeds are in fruit that is 6’ up in the air. However, as gardeners, we care very much where the tomato seeds (fruit) are on the plant. Because of this, if you are going to grow them successfully, you have to support them.

A homemade tomato trellis in my potager

Why Trellis? – Since the tomato plant has the ability to create roots anywhere along its stem, tomatoes vines will root wherever they touch the ground. This will create an ever wider and wider bush if left alone. All of that vining uses up nutrients that can and should be channeled into fruit production. Trellises allow you to prevent this. A properly trellised tomato will have one and only one point of contact with the soil. This will allow you to control branching and keep your fruit from lying on the ground where it will quickly cause rot and attract insects, bunnies and other pests.

Trellising adds support to limbs that can become very heavy when laden with fruit. High winds are the enemy of large tomato plants and the trellis will provide extra protection against it. Also, trellising allows you the added support needed to open the bush up through pruning. This increased air flow through the plant allows moist plants to dry quickly (thus limiting fungal infections). An open bush also makes tomato harvest easier and it provides access to the inside of the bush if you need to apply organic or inorganic pesticides.

This “Celebrity” has already outgrown its store bought cage and it is only half grown

Types of Trellises – Trellises can be very simple or very elaborate. You have to decide what works best for you. A local greenhouse grows a hydroponic “tomato forest”. Their vines grow ten to twelve feet in the air. They grow these massive vines by clipping them to a single nylon cord attached to the roof and the growing area. You can’t get much simpler than one string!

Bill uses “hog rings” to assemble his cages. You can see full instruction in his book, “The Texas Tomato Lover’s Handbook”. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be reused without witten consent.

Probably the most commonly used trellises are those welded wire rings that we get at the big box or local garden center. While convenient, I have found that even the largest ones sold are inadequate for my needs. If you are growing two or three plants in pots, the store bought “cages” will probably be fine for you. If you are going to buy cages, I recommend you buy the biggest ones available. Since these cages are made out of small gauge wire, their welds are weak and they will begin to break apart after just a few uses.

Sturdy cages allow you to apply shade cloth that will protect your young plants from cold, wind and some bug damage. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be reused without written consent.

A common homemade version of the tomato cage is made by bending a heavy gauge wire mesh into a circular cage. These work very well, but storage can be a problem. Since they can’t be stacked inside each other (like the store bought cages) they can take up a lot of room in the garage. Also, since they don’t have long wire “legs” like the store bought version, you will have to find a way to stake them. Rebar and zip ties work very well for securing them to the ground.

My friend Bill Adams cuts cattle panels into three sections and then ties them together in a trianglular shape with metal clips (read more about these in his book “The Texas Tomato Lover’s Handbook”). These are really great. They are tall enough and strong enough to support the bushiest tomatoes out there. After assembly, he uses a “T-Post” to secure the cage in place. Theses “cattle panel cages” are durable enough to last a lifetime. Plus, they provide a perfect surface to add shade cloth. Shade cloth can do so much for your tomatoes. If you use it when you first put the plants out, you can easily add a top to the shade covered cage to keep in heat and avoid damage from a late season cold snap. The shade cloth will also protect your tender young plants from sun scald, wind damage and also add some insect protection. While there is some cost associated with this method, your cages will give you a lifetime of service. In addition to durability, they are also very practicle. At the end of the season, you can easily disassemble them and store your panels flat against the garage wall.

Bills cages provide all of the support and protection your tomatoes will ever need. This photo is the property of William D. Adams and cannot be used with written consent.

I also use cattle panels to support my tomatoes. However, I don’t cut my panels up. I line my tomato rows with cattle panels on each side of the row. I place my panels about 32’ to 36” apart and support them with T-Posts. As the tomatoes begin to bush, I can slip bamboo lengthwise through the panels to support any branches that become heavy with fruit. There is one slight drawback to my method. Since the tomatoes are grown between panels, I have to do all of my harvest and pruning “through the fence”. However, the squares on the panels are large so this is only a minor inconvenience.

I grow my tomatoes between two rows of cattle panels

In my potager, I grow my tomatoes on “decorative” trellises that I made by wiring together small cedar limbs. These trellises are very attractive and, since they are cedar, they last a very long time. While not as functional as the cattle panels or the cages, they work well for determinate tomatoes. This year, I am growing romas in them. Roma tomatoes create a nice, neat, and compact bush that do not require as much support as an heirloom or big indeterminate like “Better Boy”.

I am currently growing roma tomatoes in my homemade, cedar trellises. These trellises are six years old and still going strong

A Wounded Hummingbird

Posted on May 14, 2013 by Jay White

Every once in a while, something amazing happens. For my wife and I, this Sunday brought us one of those amazing surprises. While outside mowing the yard, our carpentar stopped her and showed her what appeared to be a half grown, wounded, ruby throated hummingbird laying in the grass. She was surprised when the she bent down to pick it up that he offered no resistance. She brought it to our son who took it inside and put it in a box that we had been using as a chicken brooder. The bird was absolutely alert and alive, but he offered no resistance to our handling.

Our tiny little friend was barely longer than two joints of Chris’s finger

Chris brought him a drink in coke bottle lid a helped him get a small sip. After a few minutes we checked on him and were surprised to find he had flown out of the box. We decided this must mean he had been healed of whatever ailed him so he took him out and placed him on our deck. Again, he just sat there motionless. So, since it not every day you can get this close to a hummingbird, I went in and grabbed the camera. I was lucky enough to get this truly beautiful shot of this truly amzing little creature.

Pictures like this make me truly appreciate my Canon Rebel

After I took these pictures, I felt the little guy would be safer in the Chinese Privet that lines our deck. So, I picked him up and gently started carrying him to the bush. Before I got there, he bolted out of my hand and flew directly to the redbud tree that sits at the southeast corner of the potager. If you think full grown hummingbirds are amazing, you should see one when it is “small”. He was so tiny. I cannot believe that God can make something so perfect and beautiful in such a small scale. Everything from his tiny little feet, to his tiny little irridescent feathers was beautiful and perfectly formed. It truly was a joy to be able to share a few moments with this amzing creature.

The irridescent feathers of the Hummingbird are so lovely

I have seen countless hummers leave our feeders and go directly to that same spot in the redbud that our little friend escaped to. I hope there is something safe and nurturing in that tree that will heal our new little friend so he can join the others of his species around our feeders this summer.

Chicken Update

Posted on May 12, 2013 by Jay White

I am amazed at how much progress both our chickens and the coop have over the past two weeks. Before Sally and I got our babies we read “Chick Days – Raising Chickens From Hatchlings to Laying Hens” by Jenna Woginrich. This book was amazingly well written. In it she stresses how quickly the little birds grow. However, until you see it in person, you really can’t appreciate how quickly they mature. In the past two weeks the birds have gone from fuzzy little babies to aggressive, active fledglings that are beginning to try to fly and already establishing a pecking order. They have also learned to come when I call them (as long as I allow them to eat dehydrated meal worms out of my hand).

Chris is helping the girls adjust to the great outdoors.

By the end of week one they had the beginnings of wing and tail feathers. Now their wings and tails are very developed and all of that down is beginning to fall out. Yesterday, since the girls are getting so big, we took them outside for the first time. It is truly amazing to me that they do not need to be taught anything. While they were a little nervous at first, they quickly began to happily scratch and eat all manner of weeds and grasses. All in all I think it was a great start for them.

Chris’s dog Ed wants to play with the girls too

Since they are growing so quickly, the coop has needed to progress just as quickly. Luckily, it has. I have been very lucky to have the help of our son Chris for the past couple of weekends. Last weekend, we set the posts and started the framing. This weekend, I paid a friend to come and add the roof and do the plumbing and electrical. Here are some shots of our progress:

Last weekend’s progress

Here you can see the the triangular topped door that is going to be very cute with the diamond shaped window that will go in it

My Accidental Lily (Lilium species)

Posted on May 8, 2013 by Jay White

I have to admit, until recently I was not fond of lilies. In fact, I disliked them so much that I instructed my entire family to ensure that, on some glad morning when my life is over (and I fly away), there are no lilies in any of my funeral sprays. I know that is a little weird but I evidently have some early childhood trauma associated with funerals. To this day, when I smell that sweet, sweet smell of a lily I am thrust back in time to my grandmother’s wake and funeral. Having her body in the house and the smell of all of those lilies evidently scarred my little seven year old psyche.

My “surprise” lilies

Recently, I have begun to rethink my aversion to these truly beautiful flowers. Last year when we were in Tulsa, we visited the gardens at the Gilcrease Museum. The beds surrounding Thomas Gilcrease’s house were scattered with clumps and clumps of some very beautiful Oriental lilies. I was so taken with them that I began to rethink my aversion.

The reason I am writing about lilies now is because I have a beautiful orange Oriental lily blooming in the potager. The funny thing is, I don’t know where it came from. I certainly didn’t buy it. My best guess is someone gave it to my wife as a gift and after the bloom faded I just stuck it in the ground. Well, if that is what happened I am certainly glad that it did.

One of the lilies at the Gilcrease

Lilies are a lot like roses when it comes to their importance in almost all cultures. These flowers have been grown, loved, painted, written about, carved and sculpted by people all over the world for thousands of years. White lilies have a special place for all Christians. No Easter celebration is complete without pots and pots of pure white Easter Lilies on the altar or pulpit.

It is almost impossible to go into a Catholic Church and not see lilies. Because they represent innocence, chastity and purity, they are often seen either in Mary’s hands or somewhere very close to her. Legend says that the first lilies sprang forth from Eve’s tears as she cried repentantly while being expelled from the garden. Since Mary is often called the new Eve (who bore the fruit that redeemed us from sin) she always has a lily nearby.

Some of my Easter Lilies emerging after winter

Many flowers that have lily in their name are not lilies at all. Daylilies are members of the genus Hemerocalis and Oxblood lilies belong to the genus Rodaphiala. True lilies belong to the genus Lilium. Lilies are perennials that grow from bulbs that are typically deeply buried. When planting lilies it is recommended that you plant them 2 ½ times as deep as the bulb is tall. Lilies like full sun and average moisture. An inch a week during their growing period is fine.

Lilies reproduce by seeds and rhizomes. Some species even put out stolons. These rhizomes form new bulbs. After a few seasons a single bulb can create a very large and thick clump. When this happens it is a good idea to dig them up and divide them in the fall of the year.

Remove lily stamens to extend their life as a cut flower

One of a lilies most recognizable features are their prominent reproductive organs in the middle of the flower. The pollen covered stamens are lovely to look at and dance in the breeze. However, if you want to use your lilies in an arrangement, you need to remove the stamens. Some lily pollen will stain a pure white bridal gown. Plus, removing the stamens will actually extend the life of the cut flower.

My “accidental” lily has been a bright spot in my spring time garden. It is truly beautiful and I have thoroughly enjoyed watching it bloom. However, no matter how pretty it is, I still don’t want any of them at my funeral!

Chickens!

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Jay White

After raising our own brood of children and enjoying five unfettered years of blissful empty nestdom, we have decided to forego the free spirited life and tie ourselves down again to a small flock of chickens. We have talked about this for quite some time, two years to be exact. We have researched the topic well, visited Funky Coop tours and talked to friends and neighbors about their experiences.

Yesterday all the talking stopped and the action began. We went to Ideal Poultry in Cameron, Texas and picked up our girls. Our three Americuanas and three Buff Orpingtons were hatched sometime in the morning. By three o’clock that afternoon, our babies were in our car and we were parents again.

The girls will have to be raised inside for the first six weeks. After that, they will go outside into their very own palace that I will be building for them over the next few weeks. I will be taking and posting lots of pictures as this whole process progresses because it appears people really like chickens and chicken coops. And who can blame them? As these pictures show baby chicks are absolutely adorable.

Everyone that has chickens tells us that they all have their own unique personalities. It was amazing to us that this personality was already beginning to show. There is already a dominant Americuana and a dominant Buff. Both of these little birds are much more active and inquisitive than their friends.

Another thing we are very excited about is the opportunity to name them. As proud parents, we want to make sure they have the perfect name to reflect their personality. We can already tell that the Americuanas are going to be much easier to assign names because their unique colorations allow us to easily distinguish which is which. Unfortunately, the Buffs are all yellow and very difficult to differentiate.

In addition to my usual garden posts, I am going to try and post pictures of both the chicken’s progress and the progress of the coop on a weekly basis. So, if you want to watch our chickens grow with us, check back often.