Brassicas Rule, Cannas Drool by Patty G. Leander

Posted on January 20, 2015 by Jay White

Cannas may be beautiful in the summer time, but they sure aren’t very pretty after a freeze. Mine bit the dust right around Christmas, when Old Man Winter showed up and decided to stick around for awhile. Of course my small bed of canna lilies dies back every year yet every year I am amazed at the contrast of the gloomy canna skeletons against the vibrant greens, purples and reds of the brassicas that shrug off the cold weather and keep on growing, proving once again that they deserve a prime spot in the winter garden.

Canna lilies would prefer to spend their winter on a tropical island (me too!) but they’ll be back this summer. Photo by Bruce Leander

Seasoned gardeners are well aware of these gems of the winter garden, but for novice gardeners and those who have been on the fence about a winter garden, I’d like to share a few easy-to-grow vegetables to consider planting next fall.

Mustards, kale and Chinese cabbages love the cold weather. Photo by Bruce Leander

I usually plant sugar snap peas twice a year, mid-September and late January. This year I planted a vining variety from Seed Savers Exchange, called ‘Amish Snap’, on September 17. I started picking on November 11 and plants were still producing in December even after several light freezes. On January 8^th we experienced a freeze with temperatures that fell into the low 20s; the plants survived but the peas took a hit (Note: a more diligent gardener would have harvested the pods before the arrival of a predicted hard freeze!). The outer pods were damaged but many of the peas inside were perfectly edible, with a flavor slightly reminiscent of, well, frozen peas. Since the vines are healthy and the weather is mild, I’ll leave the vines for now to see if I’ll get a another flush of blooms and pods, but in the meantime I’ll seed another round of peas for a spring harvest.

‘Amish Snap’ peas: planting seeds in September, ready to harvest in November, freeze damage in January. Photo by Bruce Leander

Swiss chard, beets and spinach do not belong to the brassica family but they are ideal specimens for a winter garden.

Beets that were seeded in September have provided roots and lovely greens all winter long. Photo by Bruce Leander

Other stalwarts for the winter garden include onions, spinach, carrots and almost every herb you can imagine, except basil. We still have cold winter days ahead and any of these vegetable or herbs could be planted this month to bridge the gap between winter and spring.

Multiplying onions look grow so well in the winter garden, and they look great too! Photo by Bruce Leander

Brighten up your winter meals with the fresh flavor of multiplier onions, mint, dill and oregano.

Eating in Season: The End-of-Summer Lull by Patty G. Leander

Posted on August 26, 2014 by Jay White

Below are several easy and tasty recipes that will allow you to get the most out of those late season summer veggies that are still producing. Photo by Patty Leander

It’s the end of August, the kids are back in school, 100 degree days are still in the forecast and here in Central Texas we are experiencing the end-of-summer-lull in the vegetable garden. The bounty of the spring garden has passed and we are not quite revved up for fall, but for now the heat-loving (or in some cases heat-tolerating) mainstays in my garden include okra, Malabar spinach, Southern peas, hot peppers, yardlong beans, tomatillos, cherry tomatoes and eggplant. The Northern half of the country may be boasting a summer harvest of juicy, ripe tomatoes and fresh picked sweet corn, but bless their hearts, they were still waiting for the soil to warm up on Mother’s Day and before you know it they’ll be pulling out their jackets and snow shovels again! Yet we lucky Texans will soon have another opportunity for cucumbers, green beans, tomatoes and squash followed by a round of broccoli, cauliflower, beets, peas, greens and more to finish out the year. It’s good to be Texan.

Since “grow what you eat and eat what you grow” is the vegetable gardener’s motto here are a few of my favorite recipes for enjoying the current harvest.

Many hands make light work when shelling southern peas

Fresh Southern Peas

These heat- loving peas are so versatile – enjoy them fresh, freeze some for later or dry them on the vine for winter storage. When cooking a fresh pot of peas harvest and snap a few immature pods to add to the pot the last 15-20 minutes of cooking.

2 slices bacon, chopped

½ cup chopped onion

3-4 cups shelled cream, crowder, black-eyed, purple hull peas

2-3 cups water or chicken broth

½ tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

½ tsp pepper

Cook bacon until crisp. Remove from pan. Sauté onion in drippings. Add remaining ingredients and simmer 45-60 minutes, until peas are tender, adding more liquid if necessary. Season to taste. Serve with crumbled bacon and hot cornbread. Yield: 4-6 servings

You can make the world famous Ninfa’s Green Sauce at home with your late season vegetables. Photo by Bruce Leander.

Ninfa’s Green Sauce

Recipe courtesy of The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation in Houston, Texas.

3 medium green tomatoes, coarsely chopped

4 fresh tomatillos, husks removed and chopped

2-3 jalapeños, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

3 medium avocados

3 sprigs cilantro

½ tsp salt

1 ½ cups sour cream (no disrespect to Mama Ninfa but I use half this amount, and sometimes even substitute yogurt)

Combine tomatoes, tomatillos, jalapeños and garlic in a saucepan. Bring to a boil (tomatoes will cook down and release liquid), reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Remove from saucepan and cool slightly. Peel, pit and slice avocados. Place all ingredients in a blender with avocados. Add sour cream and blend until smooth. Spoon into a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Serve in small bowls as a dip for tortilla chips. Refrigerate leftovers.

Vegetable quesadillas are a great, lower cal way to use your late season veggies with a Southwestern flair! Photo by Bruce Leander.

Vegetable Quesadillas

1 mild pepper, diced

2 zucchini/yellow squash, diced

1 tablespoon oil

1 cup fresh corn kernels

2 small tomatoes, diced

¼ cup cilantro

1 tablespoon lime juice

4 flour tortillas

2 cups cheddar cheese, shredded

Heat oil in skillet and sauté peppers and squash 3-4 minutes. Add corn and cook 2 more minutes. Stir in tomatoes, cilantro and lime juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Heat one tortilla in a non-stick skillet until lightly browned. Flip tortilla and top with ½ cup vegetable mixture, then sprinkle with ½ cup cheese. Top with second tortilla and carefully flip over. Heat 2-3 minutes, remove from pan, cut into 4 wedges and serve. Yield: 2-4 servings

Yum, yum, yum…if you have an aversion to slimy okra be sure to try this – no slime at all, I promise! Photo by Bruce Leander

Grilled Okra

Toss whole, dry okra pods in olive oil, season generously with salt and cracked pepper. Grill 10-15 minutes, until slightly charred and tender.

Roasting tomatoes really brings out their flavor! Photo by Bruce Leander

Roasted Cherry Tomatoes

Roasting tomatoes brings out an amazing, concentrated flavor – these beauties can be used in sauces, salads, sandwiches or simply as a savory snack. They don’t last long around my house, but they can be stored in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks or frozen for up to three months without compromising the flavor.

Toss whole cherry tomatoes generously in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and roast 4-6 hours at 300°.

Spice up your summer with this Indian classic! Aloo Bhindi is another way to use your okra and the last of those spring potatoes. Photo by Bruce Leander

Aloo Bhindi

Potatoes and okra cooked with fragrant Indian spices.

2 tablespoon canola oil

2 medium potatoes, sliced

1 lb okra, sliced

1 medium onion, sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon coriander

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon cumin

½ teaspoon garam masala

½ teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon cayenne

Heat oil in a large skillet. Add potatoes and cook until lightly browned,

5-10 minutes. Add okra and onion and cook gently over medium low heat

10-15 minutes. Add salt and spices. Mix gently, remove from

heat and cover pan. Let sit 5-10 minutes to absorb flavors before serving.

The really is nothing better than fresh salsa. In fact, I know several gardeners that grow nothing but onions, peppers, tomatoes and cilantro so they can enjoy this treat fresh and then can it for later. Photo by Bruce Leander

Salsa

4 fresh tomatoes, chopped (peeled and seeded if desired, but I usually don’t)
2-3 jalapenos, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, smashed
1/4 cup cilantro
1-2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
2-4 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Chop the onion, jalapenos, garlic and one tomato in a blender or food
processor. Then add the seasonings and the remaining tomatoes, and blend
till it seems right. This is personal taste. You can leave it chunky but I
usually blend out most of the chunks. Then I taste and usually end up
adding more tomatoes, lime juice and sometimes another jalapeno. I let it sit a
bit and then go back and taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. It gets a little redder and a little spicier as it sits.

** You do not have to use a blender/food processor. If you prefer, finely chop the first five ingredients by hand, then stir in the seasonings and adjust to your taste.

This corn recipe is another great way to enjoy your productive and heat loving malabar spinach. Phot by Bruce Leander.

Corn and Malabar Spinach Sauté

It’s hard to resist the fresh sweet corn that shows up at the supermarket this time of year. Pair it with your home-grown Malabar spinach for a quick and easy side dish. But don’t stop there – sauté sliced okra, zucchini, peppers and/or onion before adding corn and Malabar spinach.

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

4 ears of sweet corn, husked and cleaned

1 clove garlic, minced

2 or 3 handfuls of Malabar spinach, coarsely chopped (it will cook down by almost half)

Salt and pepper to taste
Cut corn kernels from the cob. Sauté corn and garlic in a medium skillet for 4- 5 minutes. Add Malabar spinach and a tablespoon of water, cover and cook until wilted, 3-5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve with Tabasco sauce, pepper vinegar or your favorite chopped herbs. Yield: 4 servings

BTW, this post has been shared on The HomeAcre Hop Be sure to check it out. It is full of great posts from homesteaders across the web.

Tomato Tips and Tricks by Patty Leander

Posted on March 12, 2014 by Jay White

Nothing beats home grown Texas tomatoes. Photo by Bruce Leander

There are tomato lovers and tomato haters. Tomato haters are the ones who pick chunks of tomatoes out of their pasta or leave a neat pile of tomatoes on the side of their salad plate (you know who you are, BWL). Tomato lovers tend to reside in one of two groups: those who love tomatoes so much that they don’t care if they get their fix from a can, a bottle of ketchup or a supermarket tomato, and the other camp who eschews bland winter tomatoes and commercial tomato products and opts to eat the juicy fruit in season, fresh from the garden and whenever possible while standing IN the garden! Like most vegetable gardeners I prefer my tomatoes in season and hyper-local – direct from my garden to my table. My penchant for home-grown tomatoes means that I gobble up my last fresh tomato sometime in December and I don’t have a new crop until mid-May, and that’s if I’m lucky, so when spring planting season rolls around I am giddy with anticipation.

‘Tomatoberry’ and ‘Jaune Flamme’ are some of Patty’s favorite varieties for the Austin area. Photo by Bruce Leander

March brings the promise of mild days and warm weather but seasoned Texas gardeners have no delusions about our ideal tomato-growing conditions. We have but a small window of opportunity between our average last frost (mid-March here in Central Texas) and that first string of 90 degree days (June if not earlier) when plants slowly succumb to the heat and pests of a typical Texas summer. We want to plant as early as we can yet we must be prepared to protect our charges if unpredictable spring weather brings a late cold snap. Be sure to have a supply of floating row cover, boxes, milk jugs, buckets or other means of protection on hand to cover tender transplants if frost threatens. Even without the threat of cold weather I like to wrap the outside of my tomato cages with row cover or plastic to protect plants from strong winds.

A tomato laid on its side will quickly turn up and grow towards the sun. Picture by Bruce Leander

Row cover can sometimes be found at local garden centers or it can be ordered from a variety of online sources, including Texas Gardener (www.texasgardener.com), Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (www.southernexposure.com) and Johnny’s Seed (www.johnnyseeds.com).

Before planting transplants in the ground it’s important to harden them off by gradually acclimating them to the outdoors. Start by setting them out in a protected spot on a patio or under a tree for an hour or two, gradually increasing their exposure to sun and outdoor temperatures. For best growth and production space plants 3-4 feet apart in the garden. Resist the urge to plant your tomatoes deep. Instead, remove the lower leaves and plant your transplants sideways in a shallow trench. This will keep the roots in the uppermost layer of soil where it is warmer and new feeder roots will sprout all along the stem, adding to the plant’s vigor. The stem will turn towards the sun and straighten out within a day or two. Water new transplants with a half-strength fertilizer solution and as they grow gently direct their stems to keep them corralled inside their cage – this is much easier to do when they are young. Spray every 2-3 weeks with a liquid fertilizer and sidedress each plant with 1-2 tablespoons of granular garden fertilizer when the first fruit starts to form. Provide 1-1½ inches of water per week, and if possible use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep soil from splashing up on the leaves as this is sometimes how soil borne diseases get their start.

Nothing beats the complex taste of hierlooms like “Black Cherry”. Photo by Bruce Leander

Most of the heirlooms that we love to eat take 80-90 days before that first juicy tomato is ripe for picking. The intense heat of summer is not far behind so be sure to include some quick-maturing hybrid varieties that start producing in 65-75 days as insurance for a successful tomato crop. ‘New Girl’ (62 days from transplanting), ‘Early Girl’ (57 days) and ‘Juliet’ (62 days) are all good bets. Most heirlooms don’t produce as reliably or prolifically as the hybrid varieties, but their beautiful colors, juiciness and complex flavors are hard to resist. ‘Cherokee Purple’ (74 days), ‘Green Zebra’ (75 days) and ‘Black Krim’ (80 days) are popular varieties, and some years are better than others. Cherries are always a favorite – ‘Black Cherry’ (65 days), ‘Black Plum’ (82 days), ‘Sun Gold’ (57 days) and ‘Tomatoberry’ (60 days) bring interesting color, flavor and shape to the tomato harvest. If you have the space try experimenting with different varieties. You just never know when you are going to find that perfect plant that fulfills all of your tomato expectations. When you do I hope you’ll share it with us here at the Masters of Horticulture!

“Black Plun” is another great heirloom for the Austin area. Photo by Bruce Leander

Gumbo Onions

Posted on February 4, 2014 by Jay White

There are two things that really get my gardening juices flowing–pass along plants and discovering a new, exceptionally good variety of something. This year I received a true gift – a pass along onion that has turned out to be the best green onion I have ever grown. The “Gumbo Onion” is everything you look for in a green onion. The white bulbs are firm and spicy and the green leaves taste great and are firm enough to be easily chopped.

These “gumbo onions” have been grown in the same family for over 100 years

I got my “Gumbo Onions” from fellow Texas Gardener writer Patty Leander. Patty got her starts from Chris Corby who is the editor of Texas Gardener. Chris got these amazing onions in the mail from L. E. Andrews of Houston. L. E. sent Chris several of these amazing onion bulbs. L.E. told Chris that the onions came from a family of Cajuns from south Louisiana who migrated to Texas. They have been growing these onions in the same family for well over 100 years.

Shallots are grown just like regular onions. Only they have no day length limitations.

Mr. Andrews’ “gumbo onions” are technically shallots. Shallots (A. cepa var. aggregatum) are a variety of the onion family (Allium cepa) that reproduces primarily by division. Plant a single shallot bulb and that bulb will create several “off sets” from the main bulb. Because of this growth habit some people call them “garlic onions”

Each shallot bulb will reproduce by creating several “offsets” around the main bulb.

Shallots are not grown in large numbers in the U.S. I am beginning to see them in a few feed stores and nurseries in my area. However, most of the varieties that I am aware of are still passed from gardener to gardener. Shallots are grown just like regular onions (except you don’t have to worry about any day length issues). Plant them in the fall for an early spring harvest or in the early spring for a summer harvest. Do not plant them in soil that has been recently manured. Shallots should be planted with the root scar down and the pointy end up. Stick them in the ground deep enough to just cover the top of the offset. Now all you have to do is water and weed.

L.E. Andrews’ “gumbo onions” are the best green onions I have ever grown.

I am thankful for people like L.E. Andrews. He, and others like him, are preserving our horticultural past by growing these old timey varieties that have slowly fallen out of favor with the nursery trade. I am so glad that he decided to share his heirloom onions and their story with those of us that will appreciate them and hopefully keep them growing for another 100 years.

BTW, if you live north of I10, it is time to get your onions and shallots in the ground!

Resolve to Grow More Veggies in 2014 by Patty Leander

Posted on January 5, 2014 by Jay White

In a nod to the ubiquitous cell phone and the trend of sharing one’s life in pictures, The Oxford Dictionaries Word of the Year for 2013 was ‘selfie’. But there’s another word that has crept into our vocabulary that may have more relevance to gardeners: Blandscaping. What image does that one word bring to mind? A cookie cutter landscape? A rectangle of grass? Uniformly trimmed hedges lined up in a single row? I bet it doesn’t make you think of a vegetable garden! A vegetable garden is vibrant, dynamic and engaging. It is full of sights, sounds and creatures and best of all an edible harvest.

This resourceful garden was built using materials available on site – native rock and unused concrete blocks with discarded fencing laid down in the paths to deter weeds. Photo by Bruce Leander.

If your landscaping has become a little too bland try incorporating a few edibles or a small vegetable garden this year. Be sure to include crops that grow well in your region and start with vegetables your family likes to eat. Mid-January through February is the perfect time for planting broccoli, sugar snap peas, radishes, turnips, beets, Swiss chard, lettuce and spinach here in Central Texas. Check with the local AgriLife Extension office or Master Gardener organization in your county for the best planting dates in your area.

Get some exercise while tending your edible landscape, savor the nutritious results and you have the start to a healthy new year! If you are new to the diverse vegetable kingdom or if the thought of eating turnips, Swiss chard or radishes leaves you feeling underwhelmed, check back here for some tasty ideas for bringing these health-promoting veggies to the table. I’ll be posting some occasional suggestions for preparing the bounty from your garden – you may be surprised how delicious it can be!

This vegetable “bed” causes visitors to pause and admire the gardener’s sense of humor. Photo by Bruce Leander

There are numerous ways to include vegetables in a landscape, as you’ll see from the accompanying photographs, but there are also universal pitfalls to avoid in the process. It’s easy to get caught up in the garden frenzy of a new season but do try to start with a manageable plan. Believe me when I tell you that vegetables will respond much better when you don’t torture them with the following approach:

STARTING TOO BIG

Vegetables are living things; they may not need as much time as a pet but they do require regular attention. A garden that is too big means plants will not receive the care that is required to bring them to fruition.

Vegetable gardens can be as varied as the gardeners that tend them. Some gardeners prefer the contemplative solitude of a morning tending tidy rows of plants. Photo by Bruce Leander

PLANTING IN SHADE

Vegetables growing in the Texas heat may appreciate a little dappled shade at the height of summer but vegetables growing in the cool season need lots of sunlight to counter the cloudy and chilly days in early spring. Farms don’t grow in the shade.

A double row of broccoli grows in a narrow bed bordered by 16x8x8 inch cinder blocks. Lettuce fills the small space within the concrete blocks. Photo by Bruce Leander.

PLANTING AT THE WRONG TIME

Consult a planting calendar for your area or ask an experienced gardener about planting dates. When planting in the cool season months use a soil thermometer to monitor temperature before planting. Different vegetables thrive at different temperatures and most cool season plants will do best when the soil temperature is in the 40-50° degree range.

PLANTING TOO CLOSE

Give your plants plenty of growing room so they don’t have to compete for nutrients and water. Follow spacing recommendations for transplants and if sowing from seed be sure to thin to the proper spacing after seed has germinated.

Some gardens exude energy, enthusiasm and learning, like the vibrant Children’s Garden at the San Antonio Botanical Gardens. Photo by Bruce Leander

IGNORING PLANTS

Create a checklist or purchase a gardening to-do guide and stick to it. Allow time for weeding, watering, fertilizing, inspecting and grooming plants. Remove diseased leaves and keep an eye out for harmful insects and hand-pick or spray to keep populations in check.

Remember, for most gardeners growing vegetables is an enjoyable and productive hobby…but when all else fails visit your local farmers market for a healthy dose of locally grown produce. Here’s to a happy and successful gardening year!

Vegetable gardens naturally attract children and other living creatures!. Photo by Bruce Leander.

Grow Bigger, Sweeter Onions

Posted on December 19, 2013 by Jay White

I love growing onions. They are so reliable and easy to grow. Because of this they make a great crop for beginning gardeners. If you are a new gardener and you have decent soil, just stick some quality sets in it at the right time of year and water them regularly. That is basically all it takes to get a pretty decent onion harvest. However, onions are not just for beginners. For those of us that have more gardening experience, we can use all of our knowledge and skill to grow the biggest and sweetest onions possible.

A couple of weeks ago I got an e-mail from my friend Christi at “The Brown Shed”. She bought several more onion sets than her garden could accommodate so she offered me her extras. Since it is onion planting time in Washington County I gladly accepted her generous offer. Christ gave me six different varieties; Yellow Granex (Vidalia), 1015Y (Y is for yellow), 1015W (Texas Super Sweet), Texas Early White, Texas Legend and Belle Red.

While you can grow your onions from seeds, this article applies to those of us that grow them from sets. Sets are simply immature onion plants. These immature little onions are very tough. The average onion set can live for three weeks without water. Because of this, if your local nursery or feed store does not have the varieties you want, you can order directly from a number of reputable sources. My favorite is Dixondale Farms. Dixondale is a family owned business that has been growing and selling onion sets in the Rio Grande Valley for the past 100 years. (http://www.dixondalefarms.com/category/onion_plants). In fact, if you live in Texas and you buy your sets from a local nursery or feed store, there is a very good chance that they got their sets from Dixondale’s (all of the onions Christi gave me came from Dixondale).

A young “Belle Red” set .

Onions come in three types (short day, intermediate and long day) based on the amount of daylight needed to initiate bulbing. Because of our latitude, most Texans grow what are called short day onions. Short day onions will begin the bulbing process when day lengths reach 10 to 12 hours. Short day onions can be planted anytime between approximately November 15 (in the southern parts of the state) and the middle of February. The earlier you plant them the bigger the bulbs will get.

Don’t worry about planting in November or December. Onions are very cold hearty plants so they can easily survive temperatures into the twenties. However, temperatures below twenty may kill them. If it doesn’t kill them, it will force them bolt and set seeds. So, if it is going to get really cold you should cover them with a tarp or blanket.

Yellow Granex are the Dixondale hybrid that ulitimately become Vidalia onions. However, they can't legally be called Vidalia unless they are grown in Vidalia County, Georgia. I wonder how many of those folks in Georgia realize there most famous export came from Texas?

Yellow Granex are the Dixondale hybrid that ulitimately becameVidalia onions. However, they can’t legally be called Vidalia unless they are grown in Vidalia County, Georgia. I wonder how many of those folks in Georgia realize their most famous export came from Texas?

In addition to a long growing season, bigger, better and sweeter onions require full sun and well-draining, nutrient rich soil. Onions are heavy feeders and they have a relatively small root structure so it is imperative that your soil has enough nutrition to support the growth of these big bulbs. Most onions prefer a soil pH that is slightly acidic (6.2-6.8). If your soil is too acidic you can till in ground limestone. If it is too alkaline add peat moss to raise the pH.

Once your bed is prepared, use your finger or dibble to make 1” deep holes that are 2” to 4” apart. Do not plant onion sets more than an inch deep as this can interfere with bulbing. Drop your onion set into the hole and pull the soil snuggly up around the plant. Most short day onions need at least 4” between plants to develop a large bulb. If you plant them 2” apart, you need to thin them during the growing season. Many people over plant in this manner so they can use their “thins” as green onions. If you don’t intend on making “green onions”, four to six inch spacing will provide plenty of room for your onions to grow into big, healthy bulbs.

Red short day onions like “Belle Red” and hotter and keep better than the sweeter yellow and white short day varieties

If you are growing your onions organically, top dress your rows with a high quality, high nitrogen compost (like manures) every month. If you are fertilizing your onions top dress the soil with ½ cup of fertilizer (ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) for alkaline soils and calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) for acidic soils ) for every ten feet of row. Apply every month until you see the soil beginning to be pushed back by the bulb.

Always water your plants thoroughly after applying fertilizer. Onions need at least an inch of water per week. However, since they have such a shallow root system you need to ensure that the ground never completely dries out. As temperatures rise, monitor your beds closely and adjust the amount of water you put out. Be careful not to over water. If you see your onion tops developing a yellow tinge, back off of the water. Once the onion matures and the tops fall over, stop watering completely.

Because of their weak root structure, onions do not compete well with weeds. Keep your beds as weed free as possible. I generally mulch mine with straw. However, if you use straw you need to pull it back once the plants start to bulb. This will allow the onions to dry out naturally and will help you preserve them when they are mature. If you are not a “mulcher” you can also control weeds organically by putting out corn gluten meal every six weeks. For non-organic growers, Treflan does a great job controlling weeds and has no adverse effect on the onions.

Onions are ready to harvest when their tops fall over. Stop watering at this point.

Onions are the second most grown vegetable in the home garden. When you consider that the average American consumes 20 pounds of these spicy bulbs each year, it is not hard to imagine why so many people love to grow them. With a little care and finesse, you can make your twenty pounds of onions the biggest and sweetest you have ever tasted. Julia Child once said “It is hard to imagine civilization without onions”. I have to agree.

BTW, your onion crop is ready to harvest when the tops fall over. When that happens, be sure to come back and read “How to Harvest and Cure Onions” and “Harvesting and Curing Onions Part 2” by Patty Leander.

This post has been shared on the Homestead Barn Hop and the HomeAcre Hop. These hops are a great way to connect with, and learn from, some of the best bloggers on the web. Be sure to check it out!

Harlequin Bug – A Real Sucker By Patty Leander

Posted on October 1, 2013 by Jay White

Brassica plants love our fall weather. So do harlequin bugs. And unfortunately harlequin bugs love brassicas. These colorful bugs are attracted to the large, succulent leaves of various members of the brassica family, including broccoli, cauliflower, kale, collards and mustard. A cousin to stink bugs, the adults are easy to spot because of their orange and black exoskeleton, and if you find one there are usually many more in the vicinity.

Adult Harlequin Bug in curly kale. All photos in the post by Bruce Leander

One of the best methods for controlling this pest is to perform a regular “search and destroy” operation to keep them in check; otherwise they will continue to proliferate in your garden. Monitor your plants for clusters of the distinctive, black and white barrel-shaped eggs which are usually laid in clusters of 10-12 on the plant stems or the underside of leaves. Each female egg has the potential to hatch and grow and lay another dozen eggs in only four to nine weeks, so if you can eliminate just one egg mass you will be way ahead in this game we call vegetable gardening.

This dime shows the relative size – the intricate eggs are tiny and easy to overlook

Harlequin Bugs have distinctive egg cases, usually 10-12 barrel shaped eggs laid side by side

Organic products, such as spinosad or insecticidal soap, only offer fair control and are most effective in the nymphal stages. Adults become more resistant and harder to control so find those eggs and destroy them! If any eggs should escape your eagle eye, hand pick the resulting pests and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Row cover can be used to protect plants, just make sure there are no adults or eggs present before covering plants. Another control option is to plant a sacrificial trap crop of mustard or turnips to attract the bugs away from your desirable plants, then pick off the adults or spray the trap crop with insecticide rather than spraying all of the brassicas you plan to eat. Keep an eye out for this pest in both fall and early spring as they can easily decimate a plant if not kept under control.

The colorful adults are plentiful and easy to find; handpick and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water

Fall Veggie Picks (Cabbage) by Patty Leander

Posted on September 5, 2013 by Jay White

The cole crops that we grow today evolved from wild plants native to the coastal regions of Northwestern Europe and the Mediterranean. Cabbage might well be considered the granddaddy of them all, being the first member of the diverse brassica family to be cultivated.

Growing requirements for cabbage are similar to broccoli and cauliflower – cool weather, moist, fertile soil and at least 6 hours of sun. Plants are fairly tolerant of heat in the early stages of growth but must have cool weather as they mature in order to form a tight head, thus an ideal choice for fall cultivation. Transplants should go into the ground 10-12 weeks before the first freeze date in your area; here in Central Texas brave souls plant in August while the rest of us wait to plant in September, hoping for rain, an overcast day and/or a break in the heat. Once established most cabbages can handle temperatures into the mid-twenties and chilly weather will even sweeten its flavor.

‘Cheers’ cabbage is a blue-green hybrid with excellent disease resistance . All Photos by Bruce Leander

Cabbage varieties can be distinguished by shape (round, flat or pointed), color (green, blue-green, purple or red) and leaf type (smooth or crinkled) and what you choose to grow depends on your personal taste. ‘Golden Acre’, ‘Dynamo’ and ‘Farao’ are early-maturing green varieties that form solid round heads with excellent eating quality. ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ and ‘Charleston Wakefield’ are heirlooms that have been grown in the U.S. since the 1800s but their conical shaped heads still surprise uninitiated gardeners.

‘Alcosa’ savoy cabbage

Purple and red varieties add interest to our gardens, vibrant color and flavor to our food and healthy nutrition to our diets. They contain phytochemicals called anthocyanins which have been associated with improved memory function and reduced cancer risk. Availability of red and purple varieties tends to come and go as breeding improvements are made but current selections to look for include ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Red Acre’ and ‘Red Express’. Blue-green hybrids like ‘Blue Vantage’ or ‘Blue Dynasty’ have been bred with better disease resistance than most of the paler green types so look for those if your cabbage has been less than vigorous in the past. Savoy cabbage has lovely crinkled leaves and a sweet, tender heart. Recommended varieties include ‘Famosa’, ‘Alcosa’ and ‘Savoy Ace’.

Chinese cabbage, also known as Napa cabbage, is a different species from heading cabbage but it is easy to grow and has become very popular for grow-your-own gardeners. It is a vigorous grower with a delicate flavor and is often used for stir-fry and kimchi. Depending on variety it will produce a tight, barrel-shaped head or a loose head of crisp, frilly leaves. ‘Blues’, ‘Tenderheart’ and ‘Bilko’ are reliable producers. If you have trouble finding decent transplants this fall then try growing your own seedlings for planting in late winter or early spring.

Be on the lookout for aphids, especially on the underside of leaves

Be on the lookout for aphids, cabbage loopers and cabbageworms; these common pests can decimate a crop if not controlled. Aphids can be dislodged with a strong spray of water or can be smothered with insecticidal soap. Caterpillars can be controlled with any insecticide that contains the active ingredient Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Another option is to exclude the moth that lays the eggs by covering the plants loosely with lightweight row cover when they are very young. Plants can remain covered throughout the growing season but should be uncovered for fertilizing and periodic inspection.

Exclude the moths that lay caterpillar eggs by covering plants with floating row cover; alternatively handpick the worms if you don’t have many plants or try regular application of Bt insecticide.

Once you harvest your cabbage it can be braised, stuffed, stir-fried, fermented, pickled, shredded for coleslaw, chopped for salad or added to soups. It is fun to try several different types – who knew that common cabbage could be such a diverse and interesting vegetable!

Fall Veggie Picks (Cauliflower) by Patty Leander

Posted on August 28, 2013 by Jay White

Cauliflower’s prima donna reputation is slightly overrated. Yes, it does need consistent moisture and fertile soil, it is susceptible to freezing weather and is stressed by heat but hey, we all have our comfort zones. If you plant the right variety at the right time under the right conditions it will reward you with a large, edible head with a sweet flavor that barely hints of its relation to other members of the cabbage family. White cauliflower is what most gardeners and cooks are familiar with but several varieties produce lovely heads of purple, green and orange.

A colorful cauliflower harvest includes ‘Cheddar’, ‘Snow Crown’, Graffiti’, ‘Green Harmony’ and ‘Veronica’. Photo by Bruce Leander

So how do you keep cauliflower happily growing in your garden? Start with quality, 4-6 week old transplants. Set them in the garden 10-12 weeks before the first freeze in your area and stick with quality hybrid varieties. Here in Texas cauliflower performs better in the fall, when it matures as the weather cools off. Be sure to mulch plants well to help moderate moisture and soil temperature.

If you don’t meet cauliflower’s demands you may end up with an ugly, discolored and distorted head. Photo by Bruce Leander

You can easily grow your own cauliflower transplants from seed. However, it is a little late for that this year. If you want to grow your own transplants you need to start your plants 16 to 18 weeks before the first freeze. If you have to buy transplants, look for strong, healthy transplants at the nursery, but resist the temptation to purchase cauliflower that has already formed a miniature bud. You may think that tiny bud is a head start, but in reality it means that the plant is probably stunted and its growth will never catch up enough to support the formation of that large head of cauliflower that you are anticipating.

Look for healthy transplants; these stunted transplants will never reach their potential. Photo by Bruce Leander

Like broccoli, cauliflower grows best in loose, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5 and responds well to regular applications of soluble fertilizer. Slow, steady growth is essential. Development will be stunted if plants are stressed by lack of water, lack of fertility, too much heat or too much cold and the end result will be puny, unimpressive heads. Plants can handle a light frost but be sure to protect them if temperatures are expected to fall below 28°F.

White cauliflower should be blanched to prevent discoloration by the sun. Use a clothespin, rubber band or twine to tie leaves around newly formed heads. Photo by Bruce Leander

White varieties will need to be blanched to maintain their pure white color and mild flavor. This is simple to do: when the head starts to form wrap the inner leaves around it to keep the sun from discoloring it. Secure the leaves with twine, a rubber band or clothespins. Colored varieties do not require blanching but they are best served raw or roasted; if cooked in water they tend to lose their color.

‘Snow Crown’ is a dependable, vigorous and quick-maturing hybrid. Photo by Bruce Leander

The following varieties are recommended for Texas gardens (number in parentheses indicates days to harvest from setting transplants in the garden):

‘Snowball Y’ (70-80 days): an open-pollinated variety that produces flavorful, 6” heads; not as early as most white hybrids

‘Snow Crown’ (50-60 days): a popular All-America Selections winner that grows well in all regions of Texas; early-maturing plants produce large, uniform heads

‘Graffiti’ (80 days): striking purple heads are worth the extra time in the garden; color fades when cooked in water so best served raw, roasted or lightly steamed

‘Vitaverde’ (76 days): this hybrid “broccoflower” possesses characteristics of both broccoli and cauliflower; suitable for fresh-eating, roasting and stir-fries

‘Cheddar’ (58-68 days): mild-flavored, orange heads contain high levels of beta-carotene

‘Veronica’ (78 days) and ‘Tipoff’ (72 days): these lime-green Romanesco-type cauliflowers of Italian origin produce unusual spiral-shaped heads

‘Veronica’ is a romanesco variety that produces conical whorls of mild-tasting florets. Photo by Bruce Leander

Fall Veggie Picks (Broccoli) by Patty Leander

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Jay White

Broccoli comes with its own bonus: sides shoots form on the plant after the main head is harvested

Broccoli belongs to a big, health-promoting family of vegetables known as the brassicas; sometimes referred to as cole crops. From arugula to turnips, this nutrient and phytochemical packed group includes Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, mustard, radish and numerous Asian vegetables. Broccoli ranks near the top as one of America’s all-time favorite garden vegetables and for good reason. If given a good start and proper care it is easy to grow, and all parts of the plant – crunchy stalks, hearty leaves and deliciously tender flower buds – are edible. And broccoli offers a bonus of multiple side shoots that are produced after the main head is harvested.

Home-grown broccoli transplants ready to be set out into the garden

Like all brassicas, broccoli is a cool season plant. It grows best in a temperature range of 50°-80° and once established can tolerate temperatures into the low 30s. Broccoli should be transplanted into the garden in early fall and if time and space allow stagger your plantings over a 2-3 week period so that all those heads of broccoli are not ready to harvest at the same time. Here in Central Texas we generally start planting in early September and continue into October. Check with your local Extension office or ask experienced gardeners for appropriate planting times in your area.

It takes a big, healthy plant to grow a big delicious head of broccoli

In order for broccoli to develop a big head it needs to first develop strong roots and healthy leaves. Prepare the soil by working in a layer of compost and about ½-1 cup of complete fertilizer per 10 foot row. A 15-5-10 lawn-type fertilizer (15% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, 10% potassium) offers an adequate amount of nitrogen to support leafy growth but if you prefer to use an organic garden fertilizer double the amount since the percentage of nitrogen will likely be lower. Give plants plenty of room to grow by spacing them at least 12-18” apart. Water transplants in with a water soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength and for the first week or two use shade cloth, an old window screen or even an umbrella to help protect young transplants from the heat and sun. Broccoli will be ready to harvest in about 8 weeks but stress caused by high heat, lack of moisture or insect damage in the early stages will slow growth and cause smaller heads. Give plants a boost by sidedressing with 2-4 tablespoons of high nitrogen fertilizer when the head begins to form and again just after harvest. Ammonium sulfate (synthetic) and blood meal (organic) are both good choices.

A little shade will give young transplants a chance to acclimate to their new environment. BTW, did you see that A&M is ranked Number 7!!!

The main pest to watch out for is the cabbage looper which can do serious damage in a few short days. Carefully check the underside of the leaves for the small, green worms and remove them or dust them with a product that contains Bt. Considered an organic control, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring bacterium that lives in the soil and is toxic solely to caterpillars. Be careful to spray it only where caterpillars are doing damage and repeat applications following label instructions.

‘Blue Wind’ broccoli grows happily in a large pot

Hybrid varieties of broccoli include ‘Arcadia’, ‘Belstar’, ‘Green Goliath’, ‘Marathon’ and ‘Packman’. Popular open-pollinated varieties include ‘De Cicco’ and ‘Calabrese’, both heirlooms that came to America with Italian immigrants in the late 1800s. Rather than forming one large head, these sprouting broccolis produce a few smaller central heads followed by several side shoots. ‘Blue Wind’ and ‘Small Miracle’ are suitable for container cultivation. Don’t confuse sprouting broccoli with broccoli raab, which may have broccoli in its name but is more closely related to turnip and shares that typical sharp, slightly bitter flavor.