"Use of The Water Feature When Ill With Diarrhea is Prohibited"

Would they write this if there weren't a problem?

Last week, I attended the 2011 National Floriculture Forum.  It was hosted by Texas A&M (Whoop!) at the Dallas Arboretum.  We got a private tour of the gardens by Jimmy Turner.  If you are not familiar with Mr. Turner he is the research director for the Dallas Arboretum and a true “Master of Horticulture”.  Jimmy is an entertaining, engaging and incredibly knowledgeable speaker and we were very lucky to spend the morning with him in his garden.  In fact, he is the one that pointed out the sign that lead to this post.  The Forum was awesome!  I learned so much and met so many talented horticulturists from around the country.  And, what a place to hold it.  The Arboretum was spectacular!  According to Jimmy, they plant half a million bulbs each year for their spring show.  As the following pictures will illustrate, the time, effort and expense of this monumental effort is well worth it.  Hope you enjoy the pics.

Tulips and daffodils at the Dallas Arboretum

One of the four frogs that make up the water feature that you can’t use if you have an upset tummy.  The crape myrtle allee is in the background.

Stunning container plantings featuring pansies (Viloa tricolor) and dusty miller (Senecio cineraria)

The sunken garden

A river of pansies

Yellow tulips and violas.  Notice the pecan hull mulch

Lovely setting in the tulips

More tulips

We ended the evening with a catered meal on the back terrace of the Alex Camp House which is on the grounds of the Dallas Arboretum.  The house was designed by John Staub who also designed Bayou Bend (the Ima Hogg house) in Houston.

Texas Redbuds

Here in Central Texas, signs of spring start early.  Daffodils and narcissus begin blooming in early January.  By February, these bulbs have begun to fade and are replaced by the graceful Leucojum.  By March, big green mounds of dark green foliage in yards and pastures remind us that Bluebonnet season will soon be upon us.  Yet, in spite of all of these signs, I never really feel sure that spring has arrived until I see two things in my yard: purple martins and buds developing on my redbud trees.

This lovely redbud was captured by Bruce Leander at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

This lovely redbud was captured by Bruce Leander at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

The Texas redbud (Cercis canadensis “texensis”) is probably the most loved ornamental native tree in Texas.  The bright magenta flowers burst forth when most of the earth is still grey from winter.  The flowers seem to appear over night.  You can drive past the bare branches of a dormant redbud tree everyday and never notice it.  Then, sometime around the first of March, the flowers arrive in all of their magenta glory.  They are so bright and showy that I am always pleasantly shocked when I see the first redbud of spring.

 

Redbud in bloom by Bruce Leander

Redbud in bloom by Bruce Leander

Redbuds are small deciduous trees with light grey bark covered in white spots.  They are commonly multi-trunked and rarely exceed 25 feet in height.  They flower in a variety of colors.  In addition to the most common magenta, you can find varieties that bloom deep rose, pink, purple and even white. Redbud leaves have a very distinctive “heart” shape that is dark green and waxy on the top and lighter on the bottom.  The tree produces a flat seed pod in late summer that is attractive to many birds and varmints.  Technically an understory tree, they do well in full sun but do appreciate some afternoon shade.  Their drought tolerance and adaptability to the alkaline soils of Central and South Texas make them an excellent choice for our yards and gardens.

Raindrops on redbud blooms by Bruce Leander

Raindrops on redbud blooms by Bruce Leander

Like fruit trees, it is best to plant redbuds in late winter.  If you are going to buy your tree from a nursery you might wait until early spring when they have bud development so you can be sure of the color you are getting.  Once purchased, the redbud should be planted like all other balled or potted trees.  Dig a hole about twice as wide and the same depth of the root ball.  Back fill and tamp.  Make sure and leave the plant high enough in the hole to keep the root collar exposed.  Water in well and mulch with a 4” to 6” layer of compost.

The blooms of the redbud are a sure indicator that Spring is just around the corner!  Photo by Bruce Leander

The blooms of the redbud are a sure indicator that Spring is just around the corner! Photo by Bruce Leander

Last weekend, several purple martins began to set up house in my back yard.  Seeing this, I immediately went and inspected my redbuds.  Sure enough, they were covered in buds.  Because of this, I am now pleased to announce that winter is officially over.  Why not get in the car this weekend and enjoy the show provided by the redbuds?  I promise, you will be glad you did!

Weed Free-Organically

The cover of this month's Texas Gardener magazine. In it you will find my first "published" piece, "Weed Free-Organically".

Well, this is a banner day for the yupneck.  My first published piece came out today in Texas Gardener magazine (http://texasgardener.com/).  My article is entitled “Weed Free-Organically”.  It is a pretty in-depth piece on controlling weeds in your flower beds and vegetable gardens without the use of chemicals.  Of course my wife, kids and mother think it is the best thing they have ever read.  I hope you buy a copy and let me know if you agree with them.  It will be available on news stands by February 28th and also on the web around the same time.

Texas Gardener is the second largest gardening magazine in Texas.  It was started in 1981 by Chris Corby in Waco, Texas.  For thirty years now he has been providing gardening advice to Texas gardeners by Texas gardeners.  Chris has built an impressive stable of very well-respected garden writers.  Their articles provide invaluable tips and tricks for growing things in the wildly variable and difficult Texas climate.  This month, he is doing a special promotion with the garden centers in over two hundred Texas Wal-Marts.  Look for your copy at the check out stand.  You can also find copies wherever magazines are sold.

When I started my master’s degree at A&M, I had no idea what I would do with it.  Thanks to some prodding and encouragement by some very special people, I may have found my niche.  Seeing my work in print is very exciting.  I am humbled to know that some people think that other’s might actually enjoy reading the things I write.  I would like to say a special thanks to my wife.  Without her encouragement, none of this would have happened.   I would also like to thank Cynthia Mueller for asking me to write for HortUpdate (http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/).  That first potager piece led to my blog and now this.  Also many thanks to Dr.  Bill Welch and Dr. Doug Welsh for their support and encouragement.  My son-in-law, Ramez Antoun is a very talented photographer.  His photos made this article and my blog come alive.  Thanks Moose!  And finally, thanks to my kids.  You always read what I write.  And even if you think it is boring, you never let it show!  I love you all!

Bulb Hunting

This past Wednesday, I got a signed copy of Chris Wiesinger’s new book “Heirloom Bulbs for Today” from my friend Dr. Bill Welch.  Chris is the owner of the Southern Bulb Company and a true “Master of Horticulture”.  Since graduating from A&M he has quickly established himself as the leading expert on Southern heirloom bulbs.  His book is packed full of useful information about many of the heirloom bulbs that do really well in Texas and the Gulf South.  This lovely book is as entertaining as it is useful.  It is full of wonderful anecdotes about his bulb hunting expeditions. The photographs and illustrations are both beautiful and a great source for identifying the things you may dig up from time to time.  The text also gives you all of the information you need to harvest, plant and care for these living heirlooms.  If you are interested, you can find it on Amazon.  Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/Heirloom-Bulbs-Chris-Wiesinger/dp/193397995X

Grand Primos and Crinums at the Hueske Homestead

The timing of this book was very apropos.  Two days after receiving it, the weather was a balmy 74 degrees and I had the day off.  So, I decided to do a little bulb hunting of my own.  My wife and I are friends with a wonderful and generous woman that is the owner of an abandoned homestead. This place was the home of two sisters for almost 100 years.  Both were born in the house that still stands on the site.  The sisters were avid gardeners who loved and nurtured this piece of property for almost 80 years.  Their love of growing things is evidenced by the thousands of bulbs and corms that still bloom year round at the abandoned site.  Thanks to the generosity of my friend, I am able to go to the home site periodically and harvest bulbs.

Crinums around an old bird bath

I really cannot convey in words how many bulbs there are at this house.  Each time I visit I swear there are more bulbs there than when I last visited.  The choice is never what to harvest, it is always how much to harvest.  Today I made it easy on myself.  I brought a wheelbarrow and told myself that when it was full I would quit.

Upon my arrival, I stepped inside the gate and started digging.  The soil here is the most beautiful soil that I have ever found.  80 years of care can truly do wonders.  My shovel easily slid into this beautiful loam.  As I dug, I actually felt sorry for the bulbs that were going to have to leave this wonderful place for the hard black clay of my house.  Each turn of the shovel revealed clumps and clumps of bulbs.   After about an hour, I had harvested about 100 Grand Primo narcissus (Narcissus tazette ‘Grand Primo’) and an equal number of Oxblood Lilies (Rhodophiala bifida).  I also harvested about 50 crinums of an unknown variety. 

Time to go home

It is not really the optimal time to be gathering any of these bulbs. However, I have to harvest when my busy schedule allows.  The good thing about most of these old fashioned varieties is their hardiness.  Even though there are “better times” of the year to harvest them, you can realistically gather bulbs any time of the year.  The worst thing that usually happens if you harvest out of season is they do not bloom the first season they are transplanted.  That is a price I am willing to pay for the access to these living heirlooms. 

Harvesting

Like I mentioned before, there is definitely a right time to harvest bulbs.  For best results, you want to harvest (or divide) bulbs after their foliage has all died back.  This happens at different time for different bulbs. Grand Primo will bloom in late January and early February in our part of the world.  However, the foliage will stay bushy and green until June in some cases.  Bulbs need this foliage to stay in place as long as possible.  The foliage does the photosynthesis for the plant which the bulb then stores to produce next year’s blooms.  Spider Lilies (Lycoris  radiata) and  Oxblood Lilies (Rhodophiala bifida) are fall blooming bulbs that produce foliage that stays green for up to six months.  Because of this, it is a good idea to mark these bulbs so you will remember what you are digging when the time comes.

Dividing

Oxbloods and Grand Primos divided and ready to plant

When you dig up your bulbs, you want to be careful and not cut them.  For that reason, dig at least six inches away from the dead clump.  I stick the entire blade of my shovel into the soil on an angle toward the bulbs.  I do this all the way around the clump.  This creates a bowl shaped hole.  Next, turn over the bowl shaped mound of dirt and start removing the soil.  You will find the bulbs in clumps.  Carefully separate the bulbs with your hands.  Try to preserve as many root as you can and discard any bulbs that are soft or damaged.

At this point you have a choice.  You can replant them immediately or you can dry and store them.  I always replant immediately.  However, if you want to save them then spread them out in the sun for a few days.  After they are dry, store them in any permeable bag.  You will want to keep them in a cool, dark, dry place until you are ready to replant or share them.

Planting

Crinums from the Hueske Homestead replanted in one of my beds

Heirloom bulbs are not too particular about how they are planted.  Basically, just get them in the ground deep enough to cover them.  One rule of thumb says that they should not be planted deeper than three bulb heights.  Corms (like iris and gladiolas) should not be planted as deep.  In fact, a lot of irises like to have the tops of their corms left exposed.  Also, some bulbs like byzantine gladiolas can be difficult to determine which end is up.  If that is the case, simply plant it sideways.

Nothing is more rewarding to me in the garden than growing things that have been shared with me.  My grand parents were all gone before I was old enough to take things from their gardens to remind me of them in mine.  However, thanks to the generosity of people I can still grow things from past gardeners who loved their plants as much as I love mine.  I am so happy to be the care taker of these heirloom bulbs that have now been passed down from two gardeners of another time to me.  I will think of these charming ladies each spring, summer and fall when the bulbs they enjoyed so long ago burst forth and brighten the time that I have left on this wonderful planet.

A Monday Holiday

Surprise Easter Lilies

We have been so busy with the holidays and the remodel that our beds have suffered.  All of them need weeding and trimming.  This past Monday was so lovely that my wife and I decided to do some of that much need yard work. We started the morning by cutting back the Lantana that grows by our back deck.  While we were pruning I got one of those little surprises that I just love in the garden.  Tucked under the leaves and the bare branches of last year’s lantana was this year’s Easter Lilies!  Truth be told, I had forgotten they were there.  I won a single stem at our church picnic last summer and I just stuck it in the ground.  Well, that was a good decision.  That one plant has now divided and given me five new plants for the price of one.  I have never grown Easter Lilies before so I am not sure if this much division is common, but I am excited about it.

The Milk and Wine Crinums that I moved

After we cleaned up our mess I decided to do my absolute favorite garden chore – move things!  Fall is the best time for this, but, with a little care, you can move plants anytime of the year.  My friend and garden mentor Cynthia Mueller says that if you move a plant correctly, it won’t even know its been moved.  I have fully embraced her advice.  The first thing that I moved was a bunch of milk and wine crinums (Crinum x herbertii).  I got my crinums from a friend.  I think that is how most people get them.  I had several small clumps scattered around the yard so I decided to dig them up and make two masses on either side of my propane tank.  I am hoping that their lush spring and summer foliage will help camouflage my ugly propane tank.  Next, I moved a few clumps of daffodils and narcissus that were left by the previous homeowner.  He had planted them willy nilly all over the place.  I am slowly trying to sort them out and plant them in masses.

The "Don Juan" climbing rose that I hope is about to swallow my arbor

Once I ran out of things to move, I did a little planting.  Since I have recently finished the arbor in the picket fence, I planted a Don Juan climbing red rose at the base of it.  Don Juan is a fairly aggressive climbing rose that can grow to 15’.  It has very beautiful deep red velvety double petals and it smells terrific.  I have high hopes that it will be stunning on my white arbor. 

Next, I got to plant some Primrose Jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi) that I have been nursing for the past nine month.  I planted these on the east side of my house.  My house is on a slope and it sits up on blocks, so I have a lot of space between the ground and the bottom of the windows.  Since primrose jasmine makes mounds up to 10’ feet high, I figure this is the perfect plant.  Primrose jasmine is an old-fashioned plant that is often called “Fountains of Gold”.  You can see them growing at old home sites all over Texas.  These plants make a huge mound of arching branches that are covered in double yellow flowers in the spring.  I got mine by pulling up shoots from an existing plant and then potting them.  I have kept them alive now since last spring and I am very glad to finally have them in the ground.

The shrimp plant that I divided and planted in the flower bed

To finish things up, I divided some shrimp plant that I had in a pot.  This one pot made four lovely clumps that I put by the steps to my deck.  I also planted some Society Garlic and day lilies that I had in pots.  I also planted a whole flat of dwarf mondo around the “stump” stepping stones that lead to my faucet.  All in all it was another relaxing and rewarding holiday at the nest.

Green Strawberries (or fun with ethylene)

Have you ever purchased a green strawberry? We buy green bananas all the time.  Sometimes we even buy green tomatoes.  But why haven’t you ever bought a green strawberry?

All fruits (and many vegetables and nuts) fall into two categories based on their ripening characteristics: climacteric or non-climacteric.  Climacteric fruits will continue to ripen after the fruit has left the plant.  Non-climacteric fruits stop the ripening process the minute they leave the plant.  That is why you have never bought a green strawberry.  A green strawberry will always be a green strawberry.  It will never turn red, it will never get juicy and it will never taste good.  Strawberries are the quintessential non-climacteric fruit.

Bananas, on the other hand are the quintessential climacteric fruit.  Bananas are the most consumed fruit in America.  According to a 2006 report by the USDA, each American eats a whooping 25.14 pounds of bananas per year.  This is amazing when you think about how perishable bananas are and the distances they have to travel to get here (the top producer and exporter of bananas is India).  An understanding of the science behind this climacteric/non-climacteric thing is what allows us Americans to eat so many things that come from so far away.

Ripening is controlled by several variables.  One of these is ethylene.  When fruits start to ripen they produce ethylene.  Knowing this, we can hasten ripening by exposing the fruit to ethylene or we can slow down the ripening process by chilling the fruit (which suppresses ethylene production and is how they keep bananas fresh for so long).

The last of the yupneck’s 2010 tomatoes

O.K. I know you are thinking “This is a pretty cool horticultural fact and all, but what can I do with it?”  Well, it can help you save your fall tomato crop, that’s what.  Tonight, it is supposed to get down to 28 degrees at my house.  I am fairly certain this is going to finish off my fall tomatoes.  I have nursed them through two light freezes already.  Each time a little more of the foliage got burned and I had to cut it back.  Not much protecion left for the tomatoes that are still on the vine. So, tonight I am going home and picking what is left of my green tomatoes.  I will then take them in the house and put them in a brown paper bag with two or three ripe bananas.  I will fold the bag shut and leave it for three or four days.  When I open it up this weekend, I should have a bag full of red tomatoes!  The ethylene that is being released by the bananas will save my fall tomato crop!

Poinsettia grown by me in my Greenhouse Management course taught by a real Master of Horticulture, Dr. Terri Starman. Our poinsettia’s were wrapped in brown paper sleeves for shipment.

Here is another useful ethylene tip.  If you bring home flowers or potted plants this holiday season that are wrapped in plastic or paper  (this is common with poinsettias), un-wrap them ASAP.  You see, those plants are producing ethylene as well.  The wrappings will trap the ethylene and your flowers/plants will drop their leaves/petals pretty quickly if you do not get them out of their protective coverings.

Now that you have the facts about ethylene you can use the handy chart below to determine which fruits you can buy while they are still “green” and which fruits will never get ripe for you once they leave the plant.

Climacteric Non-Climacteric
Apples Bell Pepper
Apricots Blackberries
Avocados Blue Berries
Bananas Lemons
Cantaloupes Limes
Figs Oranges
Nectarines Grapefruits
Peaches Raspberries
Pears Summer Squash
Persimmons Egg Plant
Plums Pumpkin
Tomatoes Strawberries
Watermelon  Grapes

Felder Rushing at the Antique Rose Emporium

The yupneck meets Felder Rushing at the Antique Rose Emporium

This weekend I got to meet one of my gardening heroes.  The Antique Rose Emporium  was holding its annual Fall Festival and the featured speaker was FELDER RUSHING!!!  (http://www.felderrushing.net/)  Now, if you are not familiar with Felder you are missing a treat.  Felder Rushing is a highly educated, highly respected and highly unusual MASTER of HORTICULTURE!  Felder is a very accomplished horticulturist and a very enlightening and entertaining speaker.  When he is not on the road extoling the virtues of gardening, he lives in the Fondren neighborhood of Jackson, Mississippi in a very interesting and cutting edge house (horticulturally speaking).  He is also the host of the “Gestalt Gardener” on Mississippi Public Broadcasting (http://www.mpbonline.org/radio/programs/GestaltGardener/index.htm).  In addition to his radio gig, he writes gardening books and travels the country evangelizing the masses on the virtues of “Slow Gardening” in his “truck garden” (I am not kidding here.  He really drives all around the country in an old truck that has a garden growing in the back of it!)

The yupneck and Felders truck garden

Felder is as much philosopher as he is horticulturist.  His talks and books are full of his Southern hertitage, humor, charm and wisdom.  If you like stuffy talks about how to properly prune your hybrid tea roses, then Felder is probably not going to be to your liking.  But if you enjoy listening to and learning from someone that admires a man that wore shoes spray painted silver with yellow lightening bolts on them while doing “wheelies” on his tractor through the middle of town, then Felder is all the gardening resource you will ever need.

Internship at Bayou Bend

As part of my degree, I recently performed an internship at Bayou Bend.  If you are not familiar with Houston’s hidden gem, then read on!  Bayou Bend is a treat for all lovers of history and gardens.  And … since it is an all organic garden, it should be of interest to those of us who are interested in more than just growing.  Hope you enjoy it!

History – The Bayou Bend Collection and Gardens is the home to the Museum of Fine Arts Houston’s collection of decorative antiques.  The home houses one of the best collection of American antiques in the world.  The grounds consist of 14 landscaped acres that contain eight separate gardens. 

The back terrace of Bayou Bend

 

Miss Hogg was the heir of an oil operation that eventually became Texaco.  She used her family fortune for many philanthropic purposes.  In addition to Bayou Bend, her family legacy includes Memorial Park, River Oaks, The Houston Symphony and the Museum of Fine Arts.  She was also instrumental in preserving Texas history and the culture as evidenced by her preservation of many early Texas buildings at Warrenton, Texas.   In addition to these civic pursuits, Miss Hogg was a champion for mental health facilities and equal education opportunities for minorities.

The Hogg mansion was built between 1927 and 1928.  At the time the house was built the property was “nothing but a big thicket”.  Miss Hogg was an avid gardener and nature lover.  Her vision from the beginning was to ensure that the property remain mostly a native lower coastal forest.  Only one tree was removed during the building of the house.  Over the next several years Miss Hogg created eight separate and unique gardens on the property.  Three of the gardens are named for mythological goddesses or muses (Clio, Diana and Euterpe). 

The Clio garden after a spring flood in 2008

The other gardens are the White, East, Butterfly and Carla.   The final garden is the manicured native woodscape.  Miss Hogg donated her home and gardens to the Museum Of Fine Arts Houston in 1957.  They were opened to the public in 1966.

 The gardens of Bayou Bend are now under the direction of a true Master of Horticulture, Bart Brechter (B.S. Horticulture, Stephen F. Austin State University), Curator of Gardens.  Mr.  Brechter is tasked with maintaining these gardens in accordance with the original plans drawn out by Miss Hogg.  He uses only plant materials that were planted during Miss Hogg’s lifetime.  The main feature of this garden is the azalea collection.  Bayou Bend is home to one of the most complete collections of  Southern Indica azalea’s in America.  He uses 100% natural methods for maintenance, fertilization and pest control.  He is also responsible for a large collection of trees.  The River Oaks Garden club pays for all of the tree maintenance at Bayou Bend.  Mr. Brechter has also been able to establish a dogwood on the property as a new cultivar, Cornus florida, “Bayou Bend”.  He is in the process of propagating cuttings from this tree.  Sale of these cuttings will go toward the up keep of Bayou Bend.

 Plant Propagation – Due to its charter, the Bayou Bend gardens are allowed to only use plant materials that were in the garden during Miss Hogg’s lifetime.  Many of the azaleas and other plants are “antique”.  This means that they are older varieties that have fallen out of favor with the nursery trade.  Because of this, Mr. Brechter acquires much of his plant material through propagation.  To aid in this he manages a greenhouse on site that he shares with the River Oaks Garden club. On my first visit to Bayou Bend, Mr. Brechter had me repot 52 varieties of camellias.  These cutting were in large flats filled with a 100% Perlite mixture.  They had been in the greenhouse since last November. My first step in the propagation process was to create the potting mix.  I used a 1-1-1 mixture of Perlite, commercial potting mix and composted hardwood mulch.  Once the mix was ready I used it to fill quart containers.  I would then gently remove the cuttings from the Perlite tray and evaluate for rooting.  If the cutting showed root development it was repotted in the quart container.  Once a tray was filled with the one gallon pots, the tray was moved outside to the shade cover area in the greenhouse compound and watered. 

Camellia cuttings that I potted during my intership

On my second visit, Mr. Brechter had returned from a meeting of the Texas Azalea Society in Nacogdoches, Texas.  While on this trip, he took cuttings from 31 varieties of hollies from the SFASU Mast Arboretum.  These cutting were wrapped in wet newspaper stored in zip lock baggies in a refrigerator.  We filled large trays with Perlite and began to disassemble the cuttings.  Before planting, we treated all of the plants for pests by immersing them in a mild solution of water and orange oil.  Once treated, I cut the stems at a 45 degree angle on a node.  I stripped all but three or four leaves from these cuttings and then inserted them into the Perlite. Once a tray was filled and labeled, the tray was placed under the mister.

Grounds Maintenance – Bayou Bend is essentially a 14 acre public garden.  The site contains large swaths of St. Augustine turf and many formal and informal landscape areas.  Much of the grounds are planted in perennials.  The bulk of these plantings are the azaleas for which Bayou Bend is famous.  These azaleas make Bayou Bend spectacular in the spring and it is the anchor of the annual River Oaks Garden Club’s annual Azalea Trail.  There are also many beds that are planted with annual color.  Mr. Brechter buys many of these annuals from specialized growers that provide him access to many of the antique varieties of plants he requires.  In spring, Mr. Brechter uses a purple pansy that is currently only available from one nursery.  Another spectacular example of annual plantings is the beds at the front of the house.  As you approach the house from Lazy Lane Boulevard, the shaded drive opens to a circular driveway.  Where the drive meets the driveway are two large beds that are bordered with mondo.  Each spring, these beds are filled with over 10,000 tulips.  The tulips are then followed with 5000 pink caladium bulbs (Carolynn Wharton) which are removed and stored at the end of the season as well.  All of these plantings are maintained with natural methods. 

Begonnias on the East Terrace

Bayou Bend’s many perennials are planted in beds that have been worked with compost and mulch for years.  This soil provides excellent drainage and nutrients for the plants and aids in water conservation.  The perennials receive minimal pruning.  All plantings receive a deep layer of hardwood mulch every year.  This mulch is allowed to decompose and provide addition organic matter to the soil.  Tender annuals receive a soil and foliar application of Bio Matrix.  All weeding is done by hand.

 Pesticides/Fungicides –  Mr. Brechter only applies pesticides on an as needed basis.  The garden is relatively pest free.  Mr. Brechter attributes this to an abundance of plant materials that are naturally resistant to most of the insects and fungus that are found in gulf south.  Also, the organic methods used attract beneficial insects, animals and birds which in turn help keep down the pest problems.  When an insect outbreak is spotted (this happens most often in the greenhouse area), Mr. Brechter sprays the infested plants with an Orange oil solution.  Orange oil is effective on aphids, mites, lacewing and other common nursery pests.

Earth-Kind – When this directed studies program was approved, I was supposed to help Mr. Brechter start an Earth-Kind certification trial for azaleas.  During my first two visits, we began work on the trial.  Mr. Brechter had worked with Texas A&M Extension to establish the parameters of the test.  It was determined that we would plant three plants of five varieties in a bed of about 1000 sq’.  The azaleas were to be planted in unimproved soil on 6’ centers.  Irrigation was to be supplied by a drip system that connected to a pop up heads in the existing irrigation system.  The plants were to be monitored for three years.  During that time they would be provided with minimal feeding, pruning and pest control.  Over the course of the next three weeks, we picked a site and cleared it.  We manually removed all vegetation from the area with grubbing hoes.    The ground was lightly broken and then raked smooth.  We then laid out the plant spacing.  Once this was done, we selected the azalea varieties to be used.  For this trial we planned to use 1 Encore variety-Autumn Embers, 3 Southern Indica varieties:  Formosa, G.G. Gerbing and George tabor and 1 Kurume variety called Fashion.

 On week three, we were going to install the irrigation and the plants.  However, Mr. Brechter was asked to hold off on this trial.  He was informed that the Earth-Kind program was under going revisions and A&M would prefer he wait.  Because of this we were not able to begin the experiment.

Honeydew (and we ain’t talking melons)

Have you ever felt a light mist fall upon you as you stood under a tree on a summer day?  The next time you feel this, stick your tongue out, and taste it.  It is sweet. This sweet tasting liquid falling from the sky isn’t manna, it is aphid poo!  Well, not poo exactly, but it is excrement from the back side of an aphid.  Honeydew!  That’s right, honeydew is aphid poo!

Aphids have modified mouth parts that allow them to drill directly into the phloem and extract all of the rich carbohydrates and sugars that it needs.  Once they “tap a vein” there is so much food available under so much pressure from the plant that the phloem just passes right through their little bodies and right out of their butts!  So now that you are completely grossed out, stick your tongue back in your mouth and ask “What do honeydew and aphid anuses have to do with gardening?”  Well, a lot actually.

Aphids on a fallen rosebud

Aphids on a fallen rosebud

I first learned about this interesting little tidbit in “Applied Physiology of Horticultural Plants”.  This fascinating course is taught by a true Master of Horticulture, Dr.  Leo Lambardini (http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/faculty/Lombardini/Lombardini.html).

Our class was discussing how to get a pure sample of the contents of the phloem for analysis. Since the phloem is a VERY TINY internal structure of a plant it is basically impossible to mechanically “tap” into it and get a pure, unadulterated sample of plant juice.  So a brilliant horticulturist solved this difficult problem by applying something he had observed in his study of aphids.  Since aphids attack a plant in the same way that a mosquito attacks you, this scientist decided to gas an infested plant with CO2 to kill the little aphids.  Then, he snipped the bodies away from the mouth parts that were still in the plant.  This gave him literally thousands of “straws” from which to gather samples.  Brilliant!  I love it when someone figures out how to make something useful out of something basically useless.  And …  Let’s face it, aphids are basically useless to us gardeners.

If you have spent much time in the garden, you are probably very familiar with aphids.  These tiny little pests are quite common and quite annoying.  They have the cutest little knick name: plant lice.  Aphids do more damage to agricultural and horticultural plants than any other species of insect.  Aphid infestation can cause decreased growth rates, mottled leaves, stunted growth and even death.  In fact, one species of aphid almost entirely destroyed the wine industry in the 1870’s.  They also contributed to the spread of the “Late Blight” fungus that caused the Irish potato famine.  And, let’s not forget the honeydew.  So not only can aphids harm your plants, they can harm you as well.

And what about that honeydew?  Turns out, it is harmful too.  Lots of various molds and fungi that attack plants grow very well in honeydew.  Have you ever seen that black stuff covering your crepe myrtle’s leaves?  Well, that is sooty mold and it is growing on the honeydew left behind by the aphids.

Luckily, aphids are easy to control.  There are a lot of chemicals that you can spray.  But spraying chemicals today is frowned on by all of the shoppers at Whole Foods and by most of the regular viewers of Oprah. Luckily, there are many ecologically friendly alternatives.  The easiest is water.  Once you start seeing signs of an infestation, get your water hose and spray the plant.  If the impact doesn’t kill them, falling onto the ground usually will.  There are also bio-friendly pesticides that have show some promise.  Neem and Lantana are two of the best.  Also, don’t forget that lady bugs LOVE aphids.  So, go to your local nursery and buy a container of ladybugs and set them free in the area of the aphids.  They are a natural predator of aphids and do very good job ridding your plant of these pests.  Besides, who doesn’t love lady bugs?

Aphids cause untold dollars worth of damage to agricultural crops each year.  They also cause problems for the gardener.  With a little observation and a little effort the home gardener can control these pests.  So the next time you find yourself getting “misted” under one of your trees, or all of the leaves on your crepe myrtle turn black, head for the hose or unleash the lady bugs!

Welcome!

Welcome to the Masters of Horticulture!  My name is Jay White and I am a 49-year-old non-traditional student working on a Master’s of Science in Horticulture at Texas A&M University (Whoop!). 

Coming to A&M has been the second best decision I have ever made.  I am the round peg that finally found the round hole.  I am surrounded by the best and brightest of the horticultural world and  I am truly blessed to be able to learn so much from so many talented people. 

While at A&M, I discovered that I liked writing about gardening almost as much as actually growing things.  That led to this blog.  I chose to call my blog “The Masters of Horticulture” because it was my intent to document all I learned on my path toward my M.S. in Hort.  The blog has evolved into a place that not only highlights the amazing things I am learning, but also highlights the many amazing horticulturists that I encounter as I wander down this horticultural path.  I call these people “Masters of Horticulture”.  By listening to and working with those that are masters of the horticultural arts, it is my desire to one day be just like them.

I hope you like the blog.  It is my sincere desire that, somewhere in its pages, you will find the tips, tricks and tools necessary to help you become a master of horticulture too.  I will be posting weekly, so check back often!