Fig Facts

My newly planted Alma Fig

The sad little twig that you see on the left will soon grow up to be an Alma fig tree.  A friend of mine propagated it and several other varieties and then handed them out to his friends.  Thanks Tim.  I love receiving “pass along” plants.

Botanically speaking, figs are members of the ficus family.  Some research shows that they have been in cultivation in the Mediterranean area for over 4000 years.  The first figs grown in the U.S. were brought to Florida by the Spanish around 1575.  Franciscan missionaries took the fig to California where the first orchards were developed in present day San Diego.  Those early orchards were comprised of “Mission” figs.  Mission is still one of the most popular varieties in cultivation today.

Figs have been grown in the South for as long as there has been a South.  When I was a kid, everyone’s grand mother had at least one growing in their yard.  One of my favorite childhood memories is sitting at the chrome and formica kitchen table in Streetman, Texas sipping hot tea out of a saucer while eating toast and fig preserves with my Pa and MaMomma.  To this day, I think of them every time I see a fig or a jar of preserves.

My wife's alma fig preserves

Figs are very easy to grow.  They grow as well in clay as they do in sand and they can tolerate that scorching Texas heat.  Plus, they are relatively easy to care for.  They don’t need to be sprayed and they don’t need commercial fertilization.  Feed your fig by constant mulching or with a top dressing of prepared compost.  Too much nitrogen will make figs split on the tree and will cause the fruit to have a watered down taste.  Figs can take some drought but they do like frequent water.  A large fig bush should be given about 10 gallons of water per week during the really hot months.

Alma is a relatively new variety that was created by the Texas Agricultural Experiment Station in 1974.  It is a very tasty fig in a rather unattractive wrapper.  The figs tend to develop dark spots on their skins as they ripen that some say resembles a bacterial infection.  Regardless, the lovely amber colored flesh is very tasty.  It is great raw and it is well suited for canning.

Alma figs ready for canning. Note the dark brown blotches on the skin

Alma has a vigorous growth habit and it is an early producer.  It is not uncommon to get a nice crop from your first year’s growth.  Alma is not a closed eye fig.  However, it does develop a thick resin covering that keeps the dried fruit beetle at bay.  This greatly reduces the threat of on the tree souring.  Alma is a little frost sensitive and should not be planted more than 200 miles from the Gulf of Mexico.

Figs are relatively easy to propagate from cuttings.  Simply take stem cuttings from one year old growth during the dormant season.  Some people recommend treating with a rooting hormone and letting the cutting scab over before planting.  However, lots of old timers say you can just cut them and then plant them and they will be fine.  Figs can send up suckers from the ground level and these can be used as cuttings.  However, remember that figs are very susceptible to nematodes and cutting suckers is a good way to spread this problem.  Just a little FYI on nematodes.  They don’t like black clay.  So, if you are in area of clay soils, then nematodes will not be as big a concern. 

Figs can be pruned to grow like a tree.  However, this makes them a little more susceptible to freezing.  Unless you live on the coast, grow your fig into a bush.  The bushing habit will protect it from freezes.  If it does suffer some damage from a hard freeze, cut out the damaged wood in late winter or early spring.  Also, if you have a mature fig and it seems to be producing less and less each year, take your shears and open it up.  This will encourage both growth and fruit production.

Building a Potager

I have a problem.  Actually, I have two BIG problems; black clay and coastal Bermuda grass. These two things have been a pain in my gardening side since the first time I tried to till a portion of an old coastal field and turn it into a vegetable garden. I live on a patch of blackland praire in Washington county Texas between Brenham and Burton.  Over the years I have tried everything to tame the grass and improve the clay. All of my efforts have fallen woefully short. The clay is still either sticky or hard as a rock, and the grass always returns.

Two years ago, I began experimenting with raised beds. I tilled up the clay and added about four inches of mushroom compost. This improved things somewhat but I still could not keep the grass out of the rows, and ultimately the beds. At this point I should point out that I try to be an organic grower. I am not yet 100% weaned off of my traditional ways, but I am now using about 90% organic methods to try and control my weeds and bugs.

My first raised beds

Last year, the additional organic material really started to pay off. The vegetables were great. I simply planted and applied a heavy layer of hardwood mulch. Then I declared war on the weeds and that sticky mud that invariably happens when you water around black clay. I laid down weed paper in the rows and covered this with bricks. I also tilled in beds around my garden fence. I filled those beds with daylilies and petunias and large planters. I also added the weed paper and hardwood mulch to these outside beds. The bricks worked great for controlling the mud. But the Bermuda came back with a passion. Evidently Bermuda and many other weeds, enjoy a little organic matter as much as the tomatoes.

I was now thoroughly frustrated with my grass problem. However, I did note my two big successes. The additional organic material was definitely paying off and the bricks had solved the sticky mud issues. Now I was determined to figure out how to get the weeds under control.

I started reading and I came upon two concepts that I hoped my help me solve both of my problems: square foot gardening (the Mel Bartholomew method) and potagers. Mel Bartholomew and his method of creating super rich soil and close quarter plantings seemed to hold some promise. As I read more about both topics, I began to feel that combining Mel’s ideas about soil and close quarter plantings with the French concept of a kitchen garden might finally give me dominion over the weeds and the mud.

A real French potager

The term potager comes from the French term jardin potager. The potager is designed to provide all of the vegetables, herbs and flowers for a household. The potager is not just functional; it is expected to be beautiful as well. Because of this, annual and perennial flowers are grown right along with the vegetables. Plants in the potager are often selected as much for their form and texture as they are for their nutritional value.

Another thing that I have learned about gardening (or any other endeavor for that matter) is that it helps to have a plan. Since the creation of my potager would require an investment of time, talents and money, my wife insisted I have a detailed plan. I was lucky on this one. I am currently taking a Landscape Design class with Casey Krueger at Texas A&M. With his help, I created a very respectable and doable design for my potager.

Day 1 – Armed with my plan and an army of future son-in-laws (I have four daughters so I really do have a small army of future son–in-laws), we literally dug-in and started to build. First, we built the forms for my raised beds. This required a few carpentry skills, a few basic math skills, and a lot of manual labor.
Day 2 – Since the beds were now in place, we began to dig out about five inches of soil from the bottom of all of the walk paths. After this was done, we covered the walk paths with approximately 8 layers of newspaper and five inches of decomposed granite (take that weeds!). We then laid the bricks. Once the bricks were in place, we added a thin layer of decomposed granite to the top and used a broom to work the granite dust into the gaps between the bricks. After a good watering, the unplanted potager was ready to go.
Day 3 – This was the day for soil preparation and planting. To prepare the beds I used a modified version of Mel Batholomew’s formula. Since my clay has no problem holding water, I left out the suggested vermiculite and peat moss. What I did add was compost peat, cotton bur compost, farm style composted cow manure, mushroom compost, and an alfalfa and humate mix. I bought all of these items from the Plants N Things nursery in Brenham, Texas. We mixed all of these ingredients together on a couple of big tarps. Once it was mixed we wheel barrowed it into the raised beds. Finally, we used my Mantis tiller to mix it all into my existing soil. Now it was time to stick things in the ground. I planted tomatoes, squash, watermelon, and bronze fennel that I had purchased from the Texas A&M Horticulture Club’s Annual Plant sale. I also planted Contender bush beans, Swiss chard, sunflowers, apple and egg gourds, Chinese long beans, and Hyacinth beans for the trellis. One bed stayed intact throughout the build. In it I have onions, shallots, radishes and lettuces. Once all of the seeds are up I will again put down about six inches of hardwood mulch.

My unplanted potager

I am very excited about the promise my new garden. I am hopeful that the granite base and the bricks will keep the weeds and the mud at bay. I also believe that if a few weeds do pop up in the raised beds they will be easy to pull. Remember how I said I was about 90% organic? Well I hope to keep that percentage. However, after all of the time and effort that went into this potager, I have decided that organic or not, at the first sign of a weed invasion I am buying weed killer!

A version of this article was published in the May 2010 issue of “Hort Update” (http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/2010/may/)